The Country House 



and originally were the true rafter ends. In order that it shall not be absolutely 

 necessary to space these last equidistant an almost next to impossible thing, 



owing to construction problems we, in 

 our modern work, have made use of the 

 false rafter. This member is spaced 

 without regard to the true rafter, and is 

 carried inside the wall line and framed 

 to a header, becoming in this way part 

 of the roof and self supporting (see 4, 

 Fig. 6). 



Another form of so-called open 

 cornice is that in which the true rafter, 

 or a portion of it, is carried beyond 

 the wall line, and, being sheathed in 

 on the underside, is embellished with 

 false rafters spaced below. This is not 

 a true open cornice, as it is not true 

 construction. It is commonly called so, 

 however, and, being somewhat cheaper 

 than the other, is more commonly used 

 (see 2 and 3, Fig. 6). 



Stones used for cornices are laid 

 one upon another, in the usual way, the 

 joints being at the lines between the 

 various members of the cornice. It is 

 important that each stone should ex- 

 tend within the outside line of the wall 

 for a greater distance than it projects, 

 so that it shall not depend on the anchor 

 irons for support. It is not well that it 

 should depend on these irons alone, for 



if the roof is destroyed by fire the falling cornice may prove a grave danger. 

 Solid wooden gutters are usually 4x5 for an ordinary small roof and 5 x 7, or even 

 larger, for a large roof. Sometimes the wooden gutter is made up and lined with 

 lead or copper. This makes an excellent gutter, better even with the copper lining 

 than with the lead. It is, however, necessary in this made-up type to support it on 

 galvanised-iron hangers. The size and spacing of hangers, as well as the distance 

 to which the lining shall extend under the shingles, are governed by the same rule 

 as that which applies to the metal gutter (see 3, Fig. 6). 



A good gutter can be made from heavy galvanised iron, although that made 

 from i6-ounce copper is far superior. The metal gutter (or the metal lining) 

 should extend under the shingles for 16 inches and be secured by galvanised- 

 iron tacks or screws. The nose is turned over an iron rod to secure 

 its rigidity. The hangers should be of galvanised wrought iron, ex- 

 tending 2 feet under the shingles and spaced 2 feet apart. If the metal 

 gutter be formed so as to present one or two horizontal planes in opposition 



Entrance motive to house in Swampscott, Mass. Allen & 

 Kenway, architects. The house is of brick and stone; the 

 hood and columns of wood 



