70 The Country House 



throw the water on either side of it and avoids the ugly snow pocket other- 

 wise formed in the straight intersection. If the chimney be but one flue wide 

 a much lower "cricket" will suffice than if the chimney be wider. 



If the walls of a gable end project enough 

 above the roof, the stepped flashing can be used; 

 if not, the flashing must extend to the stone. The 

 common and worse way to do this job is to use 

 long flashings, the wall edges of which are turned 

 and forced into a "raggle" or groove cut in the face 

 of the coping stone. Expansion and contraction 

 soon loosen and destroy the efficiency of this method. 

 Instead, the groove should be cut into the under 

 side of the coping stone about 3 inches from the 

 back face. The flashing, which should be of the 

 short, rectangular sort, is carried between the wall 

 and the coping and turned up into this groove, thus 

 holding it fast (see Fig. 7). 



If the space between the copper and stone be 

 coated with elastic cement no water will get into the 

 wall, from that side at least. If this flashing is found 

 to interfere with the setting of coping anchors, the 

 grove can be cut nearer the roof side of the wall. 

 Ordinarily copper flashing should be used, never 

 In cases where it has to be modelled around 



Fig. 7. Portion of chimney and sec- 

 tion through stone coping, showing the 

 flashing of each 



zinc. 



joints consisting of more than two planes or the inequalities of rough stonework, 

 lead should be used. Its malleable qualities are excellent, and with care that 

 it be not punctured close joints can be obtained. 



Outside finish, when it is intended to be painted, is usually of clear pine 

 Before putting any piece of finish in place the wall behind it should be covered with< 

 a thickness of heavy sheathing paper, which shall project 3 inches beyond it, 

 so as to break joints with the other paper when laid. It makes a better and more 

 lasting job if the back of all finish be painted before being set in place. 



The water table, of whatever design, should be flashed with lead or zinc at the 

 joint between it and the wall covering; the flashing to extend under covering at 

 least 4 inches. The lower member, which projects over the underpinning, should 

 have a drip, i. e., the edge should be bevelled so that the water will not run back 

 into the wall. 



Corner boards should be slightly reduced on the back to within I inch of 

 either edge, so that any curling of that member shall not open the joint between 

 it and the wall covering. In this case the board is nailed at the edges only. 

 The ordinary flashing for such work is a 4-inch strip of zinc laid 2 inches 

 under the finish. The exposed portion is covered by the wall covering, and thus 

 makes a satisfactory piece of work. It is still better to use lead flashing turned 

 into the angle and tacked to the edge of the finish. 



Belt courses (generally used to separate two different kinds of wall finish) 

 run horizontally, and follow^ the general rule of the water table as to flashing. 



