Details of Finish 



The bottom edge which overlaps the wall covering below should, as in the case with 

 the frieze of the cornice, be either rabbeted or furred out to overlap it. Where 

 the lower wall is of brick or stone the belt course becomes practically a water 

 table, and should be constructed as such. 



Window and door casings are flashed, as are the corner boards, except the 

 head, which should always have an apron of lead or copper turned into the angle 

 and well tacked to the top, after the manner of the water-table flashing. When 

 the outside casing is flush with the boarding, the side flashing should be 

 treated in the same manner as the head. 



All outside finish should project far enough from the face of the wall to show 

 fully one-half inch beyond the extreme projection of the wall covering. 



All wall covering requires a thickness of heavy sheathing paper stretched on 

 the rough boarding before it is laid. Paper should be laid horizontally, each 

 width overlapping the one below it 3 inches, and be secured by nailing through 

 tin washers. These widths of paper are laid as the sheathing progresses so that 

 it shall not get damp and swell, as would be the case if it were all done at once. 



Wall shingles, according to lengths, can be laid 

 with various exposures to the weather. It is not 

 wise that the weatherage exceed one-third the 

 length of the shingle. Michigan pine shingles, 

 which come as long as 20 inches, can be laid nearly 

 7 inches to the weather; thus the effect of the old 

 Colonial shingle is easily obtained. This same 

 effect, practically, can be gotten by laying the 

 courses in pairs with an 8-inch weatherage and ^-inch 

 between each course of shingles in the pair. If 

 three courses are laid together in this way and 

 then one plain course between the courses of three, 

 it is possible to get the effect of from 12 to 15 inches 

 weatherage, as the single course counts but little by 

 contrast. 



In laying the first course of shingles on either 

 wall or roof, the butts are cut about 3 inches; the 

 second course is laid over this, with the butts even. 

 With the third course the spacing begins. 



Shingles laid next to upright finish should be 

 nailed on the finish edge only, so that they will not 

 shrink at that joint, which should be fairly close 

 when laid. The two shingles coming in the first 

 course over a casing should break joints with the 

 upright edges, rather than be laid in line with them. 



Recently there have been considerable redwood 

 shingles in the market. They are beautiful in 

 colour and texture, and so far reports are in 

 their favour. As their grain has a tendency to 



Showing differences in the wearing 

 qualities between the hand-shaved pine 

 snd the sawed cedar shingles. The 

 former, which is 18 % inches long, has 

 done duty for 125 years, the latter for 

 1 5 years 



coarseness, 



their 



wearing 



qualities are very naturally questionable and are yet to be determined. 



