n6 



The Country House 



The French window, from the fact of its inward swing, requires extra 

 precaution to keep out the weather. Fig. 19 shows a simple and effective 

 method of construction. A w r eather strip of rubber is suggested as a simple way of 

 rejecting moisture and air. It is easily replaced when worn out (as all things will be 

 sooner or later), and as its natural form (as shown in A) suggests, it will tend to over- 

 come any slight looseness of the engaged parts. These 

 strips are reinforced by the canals (g), which allow water 

 to discharge itself naturally before it can get at the rubber. 

 In the case of the canals in the upright jambs, a drain is 

 cut at its intersection with the sill, similar to the cut made 

 in the outside casing of the ordinary window. The plate 

 glass is best set in a putty bed (r) and held in place on 

 the inside by the moulding (c) with putty bed (b). Owing 

 to the swinging of the sash, putty alone is not sufficient 

 to withstand the jar thus occasioned. The moulding or 

 stop (c) should be affixed with screws, in order that its 

 removal in case of broken glass may be made easy. 



Fig. 20 shows the construction of a cellar window 

 in a stone wall. The frame is built into the wall when 

 laid, and is of 2-inch stock. The sash is hinged at the 

 top, provided with a drip moulding (d), and is best glazed 

 with double-thick German glass. It is secured by a 

 button at the bottom, and held open by a hook which 

 engages a screw eye affixed to the ceiling. It is always 

 better that the hook be placed in the sash, as it can thus 

 be fastened open with one hand, and, further, it gives 

 something to take hold of in case the window should stick, 

 and thus does away with the special knob for that purpose. To protect the staff bead 

 from the weather and keep the water from running in upon it over the face of the 

 horizontal finish board, a drip (d) is provided in the lower member of the water 

 table. Fly screens should be placed on all cellar windows. They can be fastened 

 to the outside frame, and screwed on from the outside, or a rabbet can be made 

 in the frame to receive them. Canals should be cut in the bottom rail of the 

 screen frame, to let off such water as may find its way in. If an iron grating is 

 desired, it would be better to have it screwed on from the inside, perhaps inside 

 the screen. Whatever way it may be adjusted, be sure that it is not made too 

 easy for the man who comes to "borrow" the coal. A grating always looks ten 

 times more formidable when seen through the uncertayi meshes of a fly screen 

 than it does when exposed in open defiance with all its frailty. 



The "transom" window is constructed somewhat on the lines of the cellar 

 window, being on the same principle. It is hung at the top or bottom, as the 

 case may be, and is manipulated by means of a transom rod, a contrivance which 

 passes down the architrave to within easy reach. The pitch to the sill of a 

 transom window should be fairly quick, so that all water will meet with sufficient 

 discouragement at the start. 



K... ,<,.,^ 

 y&fcy&i 



Fig. 20. Showing the construction 



of a cellar window 



a. Top rail b. Bottom rail c. Style 



d. Drip e. Staff bead 



