Fireplaces, Chimneys and Fireproofing 



125 



temperature of the brickwork. Holes should not be made in the base of 

 this air space, as the draught thus formed would tend to unequal conditions 

 calculated to crack and destroy the brickwork. The argument against this 



method of construe- 



tion will be on the 

 score of space and 

 labour, but no space 

 or labour should 

 count when safety 

 from fire is at stake. 

 The two walls 

 should be tied to- 

 gether with headers 

 every s i x courses 

 in the manner of a 

 vaulted wall, which 

 they really form. 

 Under no circum- 

 stances build a 4- 

 inch chimney; such 

 work is criminal. It 

 endangers the lives 

 of all the occupants 

 of the house, which 

 are surely worth the 

 additional expense 

 of a good job. An 

 expert should be on 

 the work continually 

 to see that the 

 chimney and fire- 

 place are properly 

 constructed. 



All flues should 

 be lined with terra- 

 cotta or burnt-clay 



linings, laid with close joints. They should extend from the bottom of the flue 

 and throat of the fireplace to the extreme top of the chimney, and should be 

 built in with the brickwork as the chimney is carried up. 



Ordinary fireplace flues should be 8 by 12 inches inside, also range and heater 

 flues. The very large heater may require a 12 x 1 2-inch flue; the manufacturer 

 of the heater will know this. The flue should extend directly from the centre 

 of the fireplace, any change of direction to be made with gradual slant. Some 

 claim that the round flue will draw better than the square one, which may well be, 

 as the ascending heat takes a slightly spiral course. A lo-inch round flue is the 

 ordinary size, while the large fireplace for cordwood should have a flue 12 inches 



An interesting dining-room fireplace of brick and painted stucco 



