CONTENTS 



CHAPTEK I. 



WIND. 



PACK 



Wind the generator of sea-waves Working season Wind diagrams 

 Direction and velocity of wind Cyclones Anti-cyclones Extent of 

 storm areas Progress of storms Wind-gauges Relation of wind- 

 velocity to Pressure Kelative frequency of gales on the British coasts 

 Forecasting gales Monsoons Significance of clouds, etc. Lunar rain- 

 bows Halos Hollers arriving before gale Harbour entrances and 

 direction of littoral drift affected by wind Arresting wind-blown sand . 1 



CHAPTER IL 



WAVES. 



Knowledge of waves necessary in designing sea-works Experiments on waves 

 Movement of particles in waves Waves of oscillation Waves of trans- 

 lation Breaking waves Length of waves Depth to which wave-action 

 extends Effect of breakwater mounds upon waves Cresting waves 

 Velocity of waves Earthquake waves Free waves Ground-swell 

 Forced waves Height of waves Impact of waves Wave-action on 

 beaches .... 23 



CHAPTER IIL 



TIDES. 



Theory of tides Spring tides Neap tides Tidal wave never perfectly 

 formed Priming and lagging of tides Effect of variations in distance of 

 sun and moon, also of declination Diurnal and semi-diurual tides 

 Equinoctial spring tides Summer and winter tides Progress of the 

 tidal wave Tidal range in Bay of Fundy, Bristol Channel, etc. Tidal 

 range in open ocean Tides in Mediterranean Sea Double tides Tides 

 at Batsham Tidal " establishment " Tidal harmonic analyzer 

 Mechanical prediction of tides Harmonic analysis of tidal records- 

 Effect of wind upon tides Effect of atmospheric pressure upon tides 

 Effect of tidal range upon sea-works Use of, and facilities afforded by, 

 tidal range " Bore " . . 44 



