BANDANA. 



397 



and their respective pretensions were differently re- 

 gulated by successive treaties. In 1777, Portugal 

 was forced to consent to the line of the Sierra do 

 Topas, but afterwards seized on the district of the 

 Missions, which she consented to restore, in 1804, as 

 the price of the Portuguese fortress of Olivenza, held 

 by Spain. 



When the revolution commenced, the Orientalists 

 naturally sided with the governor of Buenos Ayres ; 

 but whether they merely acted in concert with the 

 latter, or acknowledged a dependance, does not ap- 

 pear. ' Certain it is, that they soon made themselves 

 independent of Buenos Ayres, under the guidance of 

 Artigas, in consequence of a victory gained by him 

 over the Buenos Ayreans, in 1815, at Gaubiju. But, 

 soon afterwards, the Brazilians, pretending to fear 

 that Artigas would propagate his revolutionary doc- 

 trines in Brazil, attacked him, broke up his forces, 

 and compelled him to fly into Paraguay. Brazil con- 

 tinued to hold military possession of the country, al- 

 though resisted by the inhabitants, until 1822, when 

 they were induced, ostensibly by persuasion, but really 

 by intimidation, to send delegates to a convention at 

 their capital, Monte Video, and to consent to be an- 

 nexed to Brazil, by the name of the Cis-Platine pro- 

 vince, which don Pedro claims as a voluntary union 

 of the people with the empire of Brazil. When 

 Brazil separated from Portugal, in 1822, the Orien- 

 talists joined a party of the army which declared for 

 Portugal, and, on the submission of these troops, 

 callea upon Buenos Ayres for aid. Assistance 

 was given them in arms, money, and men, but not 

 ostensibly by the congress, until their leaders, Laval- 

 leja and Fructuoso Rivera, had shut up the Brazilians 

 in Monte Video, and a provisional government, or- 

 ganized in the town of Florida, formally declared the 

 Banda Oriental to be reunited to Buenos Ayres. The 

 standard of independence was raised by Fructuoso 

 Rivera, April 27th, 1826 ; and, as he was immediate- 

 ly aided, by Lavalleja, with forces organized in 

 Buenos Ayres, this may be considered as the actual 

 commencement of the war. Oct. 1 2, Lavalleja gained 

 the victory of Sarandi, and the republic no longer 

 hesitated to assume a quarrel, which began to wear a 

 prosperous aspect. But no formal declaration of war 

 was issued until that of Pedro, dated Dec. 30th 1826, 

 which entered into an elaborate exposition of the al- 

 leged rights of Brazil. The war has been alike pre- 

 judicial to both countries. While Pedro blockaded 

 Buenos Ayres, the cruisers of the hitter cut up the 

 commerce of Brazil ; and while both parties contri- 

 buted to waste the Banda Oriental, the Orientalists 

 carried similar devastation into the Brazilian province 

 of Rio Grande. But neither party possessed adequate 

 resources to strike a decisive blow ; and the solicita- 

 tions of Great Britain, who, like other neutral nations, 

 suffered by the war, at length brought about a peace, 

 which was signed at Rio, Aug. 28th, 1828, and, in 

 substance, provided that the Banda Oriental should 

 become an independent state, under the mutual gua- 

 rantee of the two contracting parties. Thus the war, 

 after completely exhausting both Brazil and Buenos 

 Ayres, ended in a drawn game as to the subject of 

 the contest. 



BANDANA ; the name applied to a peculiar species of 

 handkerchief, the fabric of which may be either silk 

 or cotton, having a dark ground of Turkey red, blue, 

 jr purple, varegated with patterns of white, or bright 

 yellow. These handkerchiefs wore formerly manurac- 

 tured in the East Indies, and thence imported into 

 Europe; but the beauty and durability of their co- 

 lours caused such a demand for this commodity in 

 England and the nations of the continent, as to stimu- 

 late our British manufacturers, not only to imitate, 

 but even surpass the Eastern Bi.mlana. At first, the 



imitations were made by the common process of print- 

 ing with blocks, which never produced such dura- 

 bility of colour or clean outline of pattern. About 

 the beginning of the present century, the proper 

 method! of producing the desired effect in manu- 

 facturing Bandanas was discovered, but so many 

 claimants have come forward for the honour of ori- 

 ginality, that it is difficult, if not impossible, to deter- 

 mine to whom it is due. Glasgow was the first placn 

 in this country where the manufacture of this kind ot 

 goods was practised. The extensive establishment 

 of Messrs Henry Monteith, & Co., in that city, is still 

 the largest in the kingdom, or perhaps, in the world, 

 and the observations which follow are drawn princi- 

 pally from the mode of procedure followed there in 

 the manufacture of Bandanas. 



It is to be observed, in the outset, that the process 

 for the formation of bandanas is the converse of 

 calico printing, the cloth being first dyed of a uni- 

 form dark colour, and the pattern being afterwards 

 formed by the application of a chemical agent to 

 those parts where the spots or figures are meant to 

 appear, which discharges or extracts the colour from 

 these parts only. The cloth employed is usually 

 cotton, sometimes woven plain, but more frequently 

 tweeled ; and the dye for the ground is most com- 

 monly Turkey red (for which, see Dyeing.) An 

 idea of this will be conveyed by this cut, the dark 

 part representing the ground, the white figure hav- 

 ing been discharged by the action of the chemical 

 agent. 



In the establishment of Messrs H. Monteith & Co., 

 before alluded to, about fourteen pieces of cloth 

 having been dyed Turkey red, are, by means of 

 machinery, stretched over one another, as nearly as 

 possible parallel, and then rolled round a wooden 

 cylinder, which is placed at the back of the press 

 where the discharging is to be effected. Until 1818, 

 common screw presses were used; but since that 

 time the hydrostatic presses of Bramah have been in- 

 troduced (see Bramah's Press). In each press there 

 is fixed a pair of plates, fashioned after the following 

 manner. As the solid ground-work of the plate, a 

 trellis frame of iron, one inch thick, with turned up 

 edges, and a little larger than the intended plate, is 

 employed. This frame forms a trough for a plate of 

 lead about half an inch in thickness, which is fas- 

 tened into it by means of screws. The edges of a 

 piece of sheet-lead, which covers all the outer sur- 

 faces of the frame, are soldered to the plate of lead, 

 and thus there is formed a trough one inch in depth, 

 the border of which serves at once to confine the 

 discharging liquor, and to give strength to the whole. 

 A thin sheet of lead is now laid on the plate, and 

 soldered round the edges, both plates being previ- 



