WINE. 



77 



Champagne intoxicate speedily, probably in conse- 

 quence of the carbonic acid in which they abound, 

 and the volatile state in which their alcohol is held ; 

 and the excitement is of a more lively and agreeable 

 character, and shorter duration, than that which is 

 caused by any other species of wine, and the sub- 

 sequent exhaustion less. Hence the moderate use 

 of such wines has been found, occasionally, to as- 

 sist the cure of hypochondriacal affections and other 

 nervous diseases, where the application of an active 

 and diffusible stimulus was indicated. The opinion 

 which prevails that they are apt to occasion the 

 gout, seems to be contradicted by the infrequency of 

 that disorder in the province where they are made; 

 but they are generally admitted to be prejudicial to 

 those habits in which that disorder is already form- 

 ed, especially if it has originated from addiction to 

 stronger liquors. With respect to this class of 

 wines, however, it is to be observed that they are 

 drunk too often in a raw state, when, of course, 

 they must prove least wholesome; and that, in 

 consequence of the want of proper cellars, and other 

 causes which accelerate their consumption, they are 

 very rarely kept long enough to attain their perfect 

 maturity. It is also worthy of notice, that, in order 

 to preserve their sweetness, and promote efferves- 

 cence, the manufacturers of champagne commonly 

 add to each bottle a portion of sirup, composed of 

 sugar-candy and cream of tartar, the highly frothing 

 kinds receiving the largest quantity. Therefore, 

 contrary to the prevailing opinion, " when the wine 

 sparkleth in the glass, and moveth itself aright," 

 it is most to be avoided, unless the attributes of 

 age should countervail all its noxious properties. 

 2. The red wines of Burgundy are distinguished by 

 greater spirituosity, and a powerful aroma. Ow- 

 ing, perhaps, to the predominance of the latter 

 principle, they are much more heating than many 

 other wines which contain a larger proportion of 

 alcohol. The exhilaration, however, which they 

 cause, is more innocent than that resulting from 

 the use of heavier wines. The better sorts may 

 be sometimes administered with advantage in dis- 

 order's in which stimulant and subastringent tonics 

 are required. The same observation will apply to 

 the wines of the Rhone, and the lighter red 

 wines of Spain and Portugal. 3. Possessing less 

 aroma and spirit, but more astringency, than the 

 produce of the Burgundy vineyards, the growths 

 of the Bordelais are perhaps, of all kinds, the safest 

 for daily use, as they rank among the most perfect 

 light wines, and do not excite intoxication so 

 readily as most others. They have, indeed, been 

 condemned by some writers as productive of gout, 

 but, I apprehend, without much reason. That 

 with those people who are in the practice of soak- 

 ing large quantities of Port and Madeira, an occa- 

 sional debauch in claret may bring on a gouty par- 

 oxysm, is very possible ; but the effect is to be 

 ascribed chiefly to the transition from a strong 

 brandied wine to a lighter beverage a transition 

 almost always followed by a greater or less de- 

 rangement of the digestive organs. Besides, we 

 must recollect, that the liquor which passes under 

 the denomination of claret is generally a compound- 

 ed wine. It is therefore unfair to impute to the 

 wines of the Bordelais those mischiefs which, i: 

 they do arise in the manner alleged, are probably, in 

 most instances, occasioned by the admixture o 

 other vintages of less wholesome quality. 4. The 

 wines of Oporto, which abound in the astringen' 

 principle, and derive additional potency from th 



brandy* added to them previously to exportation, 

 may be serviceable in disorders of the alimentary 

 canal, where gentle tonics are required. But the 

 gallic acid renders them unfit for weak stomachs ; 

 and what astringent virtues they show will be found 

 n greater perfection in the wines of Alicant and 

 lota, which contain more tannin and less acid. 

 The excitement they induce is of a more sluggish 

 nature than that attending the use of the purer 

 ?rench wines, and does not enliven the fancy in 

 .he same degree. As a frequent beverage, they are 

 unquestionably much more pernicious. 5. For a 

 ong time, the vintages of Spain, and particularly 

 ;he sacks, properly so called (see Sack'), were pre- 

 erred to all others for medicinal purposes. The 

 wines of Xeres (Sherry) still recommend themselves 

 >y the almost total absence of acidity. 6. Of all 

 the strong wines, however, those of Madeira, when 

 of good quality, seem the best adapted to invalids ; 

 icing equally spirituous as Sherry, but possessing a 

 more delicate flavour and aroma, and, though often 

 slightly acidulous, agreeing better with dyspeptic 

 labits. Some have thought them beneficial in 

 cases of atonic gout, probably without much cause ; 

 For whenever a disposition to inflammatory disorders 

 exists, the utility of any sort of fermented liquors 

 is very doubtful. 7. The light wines of the Rhine, 

 and those of the Moselle, are much more refrigerant 

 than any of the preceding, and are frequently pre- 

 scribed, in the countries where they grow, with a 

 view to their diuretic properties. In certain species 

 of fever, accompanied by a low pulse and great 

 nervous exhaustion, they have been found to pos- 

 sess considerable efficacy, and may be given with 

 more safety than most other kinds ; as the propor- 

 tion of alcohol in them is small, and its effects are 

 moderated by the presence of free acids. They are 

 also said to be of service in diminishing obesity. 8. 

 It is difficult to conjecture on what circumstances 

 the ancients founded their belief in the innocuous 

 qualities of sweet wines, contrasted with the drier 

 and more fully fermented kinds. They may not 

 intoxicate so speedily, and, as they cloy sooner 

 upon the palate, are perhaps generally drunk in 

 greater moderation. . When new, they are exceed- 

 ingly apt to disorder the stomach ; and when used 

 too freely, they produce all the same effects as the 

 heavier dry wines. In their more perfect state, 

 they may answer the purpose of agreeable and use- 

 ful cordials ; but, as the excess of saccharine mat- 

 ter retards their stimulant operation, they ought 

 always to be taken in small quantities at a time." 



Wines, Ancient and Modern. Our limits will 

 only permit us to touch upon this part of the sub- 

 ject. Among the Greeks and Romans, the sweet 

 wines were those most commonly in use ; and, in 

 preparing their wines, the ancients often inspissated 

 them until they became of the consistence of honey, 

 or even thicker. These were diluted with water 

 previously to their being drank ; and, indeed, the 

 habit of mixing wine with water seems to have pre- 

 vailed much more in antiquity than in modern times. 

 Among the principal Greek wines, the Maronean 

 and Ismarian were of Thracian growth ; the Pram- 

 nian, of uncertain growth, was a strong, hard, as- 

 tringent liquor, resembling Port ; but the luscious 

 sweet wines are the favourite topics of the Gre- 

 cian drinking songs. They were chiefly the pro- 

 ducts of the Ionian and Mgean isles. The Chian 

 was famous for its exquisite aroma, the Lesbian for 



These remarks are more particularly applicable to the Port 

 intended for the British market 



