LINEN. 



477 



calicoes. The beauty of linen consists in the even- 

 ness of the thread, its fineness, and density. The last 

 of these qualities is sometimes produced by subjecting 

 it to rollers; hence linen with a round thread is pre- 

 ferred to that with a flat thread. The warp or woof 

 is not unfrequently made of cotton yarn, which renders 

 the cloth less durable, and named union cloth. In an 

 historical view, linen is interesting, as forming the 

 dress of the Egyptian priests, who wore it at all their 

 religious ceremonies ; hence they are styled by Ovid 

 and Juvenal, " linen-wearing." (See also Lev. xvi. 4, 

 and Spencer On the Laws and Rituals of the Jews.) 

 From Egypt, linen passed to the Romans, but not 

 till the time of the emperors. The Roman priests 

 also began to wear linen garments at that time. 

 Linen was also used as a material for writing, though 

 the expression libri lintei, carbasini, was also applied 

 to cotton and silk, as well as linen. The Sibylline 

 books and the mummy bandages, covered with hiero- 

 glyphics, are proofs of this use of linen. In the 

 middle ages, linen and woollen cloth formed the only 

 materials for dress ; and fine linen was held in very 

 high estimation ; even the writer of the Nibelungen- 

 lied mentions it. Germany and Brabant then carried 

 linen manufactures to the greatest perfection. Linen 

 is yet necessary for the manufacturing of good paper. 

 Cotton has, of late years, taken the place of linen for 

 many purposes, on account of its greater cheapness. 

 See Cotton, and Byssus. 



The linen manufacture has been prosecuted in 

 England for a very long period ; but though its pro- 

 gress lias been considerable, particularly of late years, 

 it has not been so great as might have been antici- 

 pated. 



In 1698, both houses of parliament addressed his 

 Majesty ( Wm. III.), representing that the progress of 

 the woollen manufacture of Ireland was such as to 

 prejudice that of this country; and that it would be for 

 the public advantage, were the former discouraged, 

 and the linen manufacture established in its stead; his 

 majesty granted their request. It is but justice, how- 

 ever, to the parliament and government of England, to 

 state that they have never discovered any backward- 

 ness to promote the linen trade of Ireland ; which, 

 from the reign of Wm. III. downwards, has been the 

 object of regulation and encouragement. Yet it may 

 be doubted whether the regulations have been always 

 the most judicious that might have been devised, and 

 whether Ireland has really gained any thing by the 

 forced extension of the manufacture. Besides pre- 

 miums and encouragements of various kinds, bounties 

 were granted on the exportation of linen for a very 

 long period down to 1830. In 1829, for example, 

 notwithstanding it had then been very much reduced, 

 the bounty amounted to about 300,000, or to nearly 

 one seventh part of the entire real or declared value 

 of the linen exported that year. These bounties 

 generally had a very bad effect, toward the latter 

 period of their existence, on linens produced for ex- 

 portation. The pieces deteriorated in quality, in con- 

 sequence of the manufacturer studying rather to 

 secure the bounty than to produce a superior article. 

 The result of such a mode of procedure was entirely 

 overlooked, so long as sales could be effected and the 

 bounty obtained. No sooner was the bounty with- 

 drawn, than the manufacturer perceived that the 

 superiority of his cloth only could enable him suc- 

 cessfully to compete in a foreign market. Hence, 

 from that period the utmost attention has been 

 bestowed to the strength of material and durability of 

 texture in this staple branch of our manufacture. 

 Yet, after all, the business never began to do any real 

 good, or to take firm root, till the manufacture ceased 

 to be a domestic one, and was carried on principally 

 in mills, and by the aid of machinery, a change which 



the old forcing system tended to counteract. The only 

 real and effectual legislative encouragement the manu- 

 facture has ever met with, has been the reduction of 

 the duties on flax and hemp, and the relinquishing of 

 the absurd attempts to force their growth at home. 



Table of the Quantity and Value of the Linens exported from 

 Ireland, from 1820 to 1829, both inclutive. 



Of these exports, more than 12-13ths have been to 

 Great Britain. The total average export, during the 

 three years ending with 1825, was 51,947,413 yards, 

 of which 49,031,073 went to England ; the exports 

 to all other parts being only 2,916,340. Since 1825, 

 the trade between Ireland and Great Britain has been 

 placed on the footing of a coasting trade, so that 

 linens are exported and imported without any specific 

 entry at the custom-house. 



Scotch Linen Manufacture. In 1727, a board of 

 trustees was established in Scotland for the superin- 

 tendence and improvement of the linen manufacture. 

 It is not easy to suppose that the institution of this 

 board could of itself have been of any material ser- 

 vice; but considerable bounties and premiums being 

 at the same time given on the production and expor- 

 tation of linen, the manufacture went on increasing. 

 Still it did not increase so fast as cotton, so that it is 

 very doubtful whether the influence of the bounty 

 has been so great as it would at first sight appear to 

 have been. The regulations as to the manufacture, 

 after having been long objected to by those concerned, 

 were abolished in 1822 ; and the bounties have now 

 ceased. 



Account of the Quantity of the Foreign Linens retained for 

 Hume Consurnptiun in Great Britain, in the Year ended 5<A 

 of January, 1831. 



Dundee is the grand seat of the Scotch linen manu- 

 facture ; and its progress there during the last few 

 years has been extraordinary. The manufacture 

 appears to have been introduced into Dundee some 

 time about the beginning of last century. In 1745, 

 only seventy-four tons of flax were imported, without 

 any hemp ; the shipments of linen cloth during the 

 same year being estimated at about 1,000,000 yards, 

 no mention being made either of sail-cloth or bagging. 

 In 1791, the imports of flax amounted to 2,444 tons, 

 and those of hemp to 299 tons ; the exports that year 

 being 7,842,000 yards linen, 280,000 yards sail-cloth, 

 and 65,000 do. bagging. From this period the trade 

 began to extend itself gradually, though not rapidly. 

 About 1815, in consequence, partly and principally 

 of the improvement of machinery, and its extensive 

 introduction into the manufacture, an'l partly of the 



