MISSISSIPPI. 



847 



called bluffs, which, in some cases, approach to the 

 river, and'at other places, are seen several miles from 

 it. On the border of the river are those called Walnut 

 Hills, Grand Gulf, Natchez, White Cliffs, and Loftus 

 Heights. Two ranges of hills divide the state nearly 

 in its whole extent, and separate it into sectional 

 divisions. In advancing from the bottoms of the 

 Mississippi, there is everywhere, at a greater or less 

 distance from the river, an appearance of bluffs, 

 which, when mounted, spread out into a kind of table 

 surface, waving agreeably ; but, in many instances, 

 the richest taole lands have precipitous benches, 

 which expose the land to be washed, and divided by 

 deep ravines. In the northern part of the slate, in- 

 habited by the Cherokees and Choctaws, the land 

 rises into pleasant and regular undulations. The 

 soil is deep, black, and rich; and, in its natural state, 

 both here and in the more southern parts of the state, 

 much of it is covered with cane-brake. The country 

 inhabited by the Chickasaws, in the north-west part 

 of the state, is charmingly variegated with swells and 

 valleys of great fertility, and abounds with fine 

 springs. In the lower parts of Mississippi, border- 

 ing on the river, neither rocks, stones of any size, 

 nor even gravel, are often seen on the surface of the 

 ground. Some places are exceptions to this remark, 

 but, in other parts, a person may perform a day's 

 journey without finding any stones which have not 

 been brought from distant places. In general, the 

 surface of this state is most agreeably diversified with 

 ridges, hills, and valleys, and the soil is remarkably 

 fertile. The Mississippi river washes the whole 

 western border of the state. Following its very 

 meandering course, this distance is about 700 miles. 

 The curves of the river often bring it back with very 

 little progress, after a course of seven or eight leagues. 

 The greater part of this long line of river coast con- 

 sists of inundated swamps, seldom seen except by 

 people travelling on the river. These swamps are 

 generally covered with dense forests. The Yazoo is 

 the largest river that has its whole course in this state. 

 The Pearl is next in importance, and traverses the 

 centre of the state from north to south. Some legis- 

 lative efforts have been made to improve its naviga- 

 tion. The Pascagoula rises in lat. 33, and has a 

 course of 250 miles before it enters the gulf of 

 Mexico. It is capable of considerable navigation. 

 At its mouth, it widens into an open bay, on which 

 stands the town of Pascagoula, whither many people 

 from New Orleans resort during the sickly months. 

 The Big Black has a course of 200 miles, and is 

 navigable for boats fifty miles. It enters the Missis- 

 sippi just above Grand gulf. The Homochitto is also 

 a considerable river, and flows into the Mississippi 

 nbove fort Adams. The other rivers and creeks are 

 comparatively small. The quantity of land embraced 

 within the state is 31,074.234 acres. Of this, the 

 Indians still claim 11,514,517 acres, and the United 

 States claim 16,885,760 acres; leaving only 2,673,957 

 acres properly belonging to the citizens of the state. 

 Mississippi has only about thirty miles of sea-coast, 

 and has no harbour except Pascagoula. Along the 

 coast are a few islands of little importance. Back 

 from the coast, the country, for a considerable dis- 

 tance, is a sandy, level, pine forest ; but this part ol 

 the state is healthy, and the timber is very valuable. 

 The climate of this state is generally best suited to 

 the growth of cotton. Its western border is so much 

 exposed to inundation, that it cannot be expected to 

 be very healthy until levees are raised to keep the 

 great river within its proper banks. In the most 

 fertile parts of the state, the forests present an im 

 mense growth of oak, hickory, lime, sassafras, cotton 

 wood, magnolia, poplar, and other valuable trees 

 and the swamps abound with cypress. In moist land 



;he trees are covered with long moss, hanging often 

 ive or six feet from the branches, and giving to the 

 brests a very singular and rather gloomy appearance. 

 The palmetto is seen in the southern section, and the 

 amily of laurels in various parts. The laurel mag- 

 nolia (magnolia grandiflora) is frequently seen in great 

 jerfection ; and the forests abound with beautiful 

 lowers, which remind the northern traveller that he 

 las entered upon a new climate. The sugar-cane 

 rows only on the southern borders of the state. 

 The orange and the live-oak are principally confined 

 to the lower waters of the Pascagoula and Pearl 

 ivers. In the middle regions, figs, tobacco, maize, 

 iweet potatoes, rice, indigo, squashes, melons, plums, 

 and peaches will grow well ; but excepting maize, 

 reaches, melons, potatoes, and squashes, they are but 

 ittle cultivated. Grapes of various kinds grow wild, 

 and the vines are seen, in great numbers, hanging 

 rom the branches of the highest trees, like the ropes 

 of a ship. Many of them are two or three, and some 

 are six or eight inches in diameter. Almost every 

 species of the grape would probably come to maturity 

 in this state. But the principal attention of the 

 Mississippians is directed to the growth of cotton. 

 This is the grand staple of the state. Although 

 its price has diminished nearly two thirds within 

 a few years, yet it is more profitable than any 

 other production. Most of the good planters 

 raise Indian corn enough for their own use, and 

 also raise hogs enough to supply them with bacon. 

 These are the principal and most wholesome 

 articles of food for this climate, but the wealthy 

 planters are supplied with an abundance of the neces- 

 saries and luxuries of life. Apples and pears grow 

 imperfectly in a few places. Probably they might 

 flourish on some of the northern highlands. Natchez 

 is much the largest town, and the principal seat ot 

 commercial transactions. Monticello is a pleasant, 

 flourishing village on Pearl river, and was lately the 

 seat of government. Jackson, near the head ot 

 Rearl river, has been selected as the permanent seat 

 of government. It has a central, healthy, and plea- 

 sant situation, but has not yet many inhabitants. 

 Vicksburg, below the Walnut Hills, on the Mississip- 

 pi, has risen up within a few years, and has already 

 become a place of great trade. Greenville, Wood- 

 ville, and Winchester are flourishing villages. Gib- 

 son Post is a village of considerable importance ; it 

 is situated on bayou Pierre, about thirty-five miles 

 above Natchez. Shieldsborough, on the west side of 

 the bay of St Louis, is often resorted to by the inha- 

 bitants of New Orleans during the sickly months. 

 Warrenton is another thriving village on the Missis- 

 sippi, from which large quantities of cotton are ex- 

 ported. There are ample public funds for the endow- 

 ment of schools, but the blessings of education are 

 not generally diffused. The legislature has done 

 little towards requiring the establishment and support 

 of suitable schools. This is also true of most of the 

 Southern and Western States ; and a large part of 

 the children are consequently but imperfectly educa- 

 ted. An institution, called a college, has been in- 

 corporated at Shieldsborough. Jefferson college is 

 at Washington, six miles from Natchez. Schools of 

 good reputation have l>een supported at Natchez, 

 Woodv ille, and Monticello. The principal religious 

 denominations are Methodists, Baptists, Presbyterians, 

 Catholics, and Episcopalians. The principal tribes 

 of Indians are the Choctaws and Chickasaws. The 

 former are estimated at 4000 ; the latter at more than 

 20,000. This state was included within the country 

 which was discovered and possessed by the French, 

 who formed a settlement at Natchez about the year 

 1716. In 1763, it was ceded to the British with the 

 rest of the French possessions east of the river 



