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the shores, and see that they are well bedded. When 

 centering up in freezing weather on a first floor, or 

 when braces go into the ground, take every precaution 

 against a thaw softening up the ground and throwing 

 the work out of line. Place the remaining shores and 

 brace all well. For very long shores put in such 

 bracing as to secure them against possible buckling. 

 Next place the beam and girder sides and plumb, using 

 the spreaders referred to. Make all tight and follow 

 with the joists and sheeting. 



In placing shores for any of the upper stories, be 

 sure that they come over the beams below. This is 

 imperative. 



Careless mechanics in placing joists will cut them 

 too long, and wedge the beam boxes in at the top. 

 This is one of the reasons calling for the use of 

 spreaders as noted previously. 



Teach your carpenters never to do any sawing over 

 a finished beam box. The sawdust and chips will all 

 have to be cleaned out again, and it is unnecessary 

 carelessness. 



Sometimes with very deep girders, it may be neces- 

 sary to secure the sides against bulging at the half 

 depth from the pressure. A good way is to use No. 9 

 iron wire. Drill two small holes in each girder side 

 opposite each other and pass the ends of a suitable 

 piece of wire through. Twist the ends together on the 

 outside securely, then if necessary put a small stick or 

 rod between the two strands inside the form and twist 

 till the sides are brought together tight up against a 

 spreader of the right length. Of course the wire must 

 bear on some piece or cleat or something in the loops 

 outside the box to distribute the pressure against the 

 girder sides. This wire may be cut very easily to 

 allow removing the sides. This wire is put in after the 

 steel is placed. 



Check over forms very carefully before running any 

 concrete. See that all walls, girder and beam sides, 



