URE. 61 



but in droughts only a few gentle rills the tears of the Naiads 

 run over the ledges of limestone. The bridge above the Falls is 

 commendable as a station for looking on the river and church. 

 Penhill* now becomes a noble object, and the views up the deep 

 and shadowy glens below it Bishopdale and Waldendale are 

 grand and pleasing. In the time of Leland, Penhill was crowned 

 by a rude fortress or Peel. We now enter a part of Wensleydale 

 on which art has conferred some not unattractive objects. The 

 bordering hills become lower and less wild -, the lowland is more 

 shaded with woods ; the slopes have more evidence of resident 

 wealth and greater effect of ornament. Among buildings of 

 interest 



Aysgarth Church, already mentioned as standing in a promi- 

 nent position above the Falls, may be regarded as a mother 

 church ; for all the upper part of Wensleydale, including Askrigg 

 and Hawes, is in the parish of Aysgarth. Below this point the 

 parishes are of smaller extent and more frequent occurrence, in- 

 dicating more ancient and important settlements than most of 

 those in the higher part of the valley. 



The little church of Red Mere will gratify the archaeologist 

 who can approve a very plain edifice, suited to a simple pastoral 

 country. 



Bolton Castle, with its four towers, one of the most complete, 

 in respect of walls at least, of the Yorkshire castles, dates from 

 the latter part of the 14th century, having been built by Richard 

 Lord Scrope (temp. Ric. II.), whose family mostly resided at it, 

 till the title was extinct in the days of Charles I. It stood for 

 the king, and was taken in 1645. This was one of the many 

 prisons of Mary Queen of Scots (1568). On approaching this 

 noble pile from the east, we remark on each side of the road the 

 ancient cottages which crouched under the shelter of the castle. 

 Leland speaks with wonder of " chimneys conveyed by tunnels 

 made in the sides of the walls between the lights in the hall, by 

 which means and by no covers is the smoke of the harthe in the 

 * Pen in Cymraic signifies point or head. 



