VOYAGE TO ALGERIA. 115 
vent. During dinner the same genial traits which appeared 
in the morning were still more conspicuous. The freshness 
of the governor's nature showed itself best when he spoke 
of his old antagonist in arms, Mouravieif. Chivalry in 
war is consistent with its stern prosecution. These two 
men were chivalrous, and after striking the last blow be- 
came friends forever. Our kind and courteous reception 
at Gibraltar is a thing to be remembered with pleasure. 
On December 15 we committed ourselves to the Med- 
iterranean. The views of Gibraltar with which we are 
most acquainted represent it as a huge ridge; but its aspect, 
end on, both from the Spanish lines and from the other 
side, is truly noble. There is a sloping bank of sand at 
the back of the rock, which I was disposed to regard sim- 
ply as the debris of the limestone. I wished to leb myself 
down upon it, but had not the time. My friend Mr. Busk, 
however, assures me that it is silica, and that the same 
sand constitutes the adjacent neutral ground. There are 
theories afloat as to its having been blown from Sahara. 
The Mediterranean throughout this first day, and indeed 
throughout the entire voyage to Oran, was of a less deep blue 
than the Atlantic. Possibly the quantity of organisms may 
have modified the color. At night the phosphorescence was 
startling, breaking suddenly out along the crests of the 
waves formed by the port and starboard bows. Its strength 
was not uniform. Having flashed brilliantly for a time, it 
would in part subside, and afterward regain its vigor. 
Several large phosphorescent masses of weird appearance 
also floated past. 
On the morning of the 16th we sighted the fort and 
lighthouse of Marsa el Kibir, and beyond them the white 
walls of Oran lying in the bight of a bay, sheltered by 
dominant hills. The sun was shining brightly; during 
our whole voyage we had not had so fine a day. The wis- 
dom which had led us to choose Oran as our place of obser- 
vation seemed demonstrated. A rather excitable pilot 
came on board, and he guided us in behind the mole, 
which had suffered much damage the previous year from 
an unexplained outburst of waves from the Mediterranean. 
Both port and bow anchors were cast in deep water. 
With three huge hawsers the ship's stem was made fast to 
three gun-pillars fixed in the mole; and here for a time the 
Urgent rested from her labors. 
