HOW TO GROW CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER. 143 



(we usually begin the transplanting in the frames about 

 the 1 5th,) that we have a continuation of comparatively 

 warm weather, which induces a quick and soft growth in 

 the plants, which, of course, renders them very suscepti- 

 ble of injury from frost. When in that condition, we 

 have seen them injured when the thermometer only 

 marked 27 above zero, or but 5 of frost; while if 

 gradually hardened by being exposed to chilly nights, 

 they would receive no injury even when the thermometer 

 marks 10 or 12 above zero. This will be well under- 

 stood when we remember that in midwinter, when 

 covered with sash alone, they sustain a cold, often for 

 days together, of 10 below zero; but then, of course, 

 they have been gradually inured to it. In sections of the 

 country where the thermometer falls to 15 or 20 below 

 zero, it will be necessary to use straw mats or shutters 

 over the glass. At all times, from the time of putting 

 sashes on in fall until taking them off in spring, (which 

 is usually from the i5thof March to April ist,) abundant 

 ventilation should be given, so as to render them as 

 hardy as possible. The sure indication that they are in 

 the " frost proof " condition is when the leaves show a 

 bluish color, which they get when they have been gradu- 

 ally hardened off. 



SPRING SOWING. 



Although the most of the Jersey market gardeners 

 still use the cold frames for growing the bulk of their 

 early Cabbage crop, yet of late years the system of spring 

 sowing and transplanting, and sometimes even without 

 transplanting, is also used to a considerable extent. This 

 is usually done by sowing the seeds thickly (about one 

 ounce to three sashes) in a hot-bed or green-house about 

 February ist, and transplanting into a slight hot-bed 



