A SIMPLE ROSE GARDEN 135 



first of April with the cutting out of dead wood and the 

 shortening and shaping of last year's growth. With 

 hardy roses the flowers come from fresh twigs on old 

 growth. I never prune in the autumn, because winter 

 always kills a bit of the top and cutting opens the tubu- 

 lar stem to the weather and induces decay. Pruning 

 is a science in itself, to be learned by experience. 

 This is the formula that I once wrote on a slate and kept 

 in my attic desk with my first Boke of the Garden. 



April i. Uncover bushes, prune, and have the winter 

 mulch thoroughly dug in. Place stakes in the centre 

 of bushes that you know from experience will need them. 

 Re- tie climbers that have broken away from supports, 

 but not too tightly; let some sprays swing and arch in 

 their own way. 



May. As soon as the foliage begins to appear, spray 

 with whale-oil soap lotion mixed hot and let cool: 

 strength a bit the size of a walnut to a gallon of water. 

 Do this every two weeks until the rosebuds show de- 

 cided colour, then stop. This is to keep the rose Aphis 

 at bay, the little soft green fly that is as succulent as the 

 sap upon which it feeds. 



If the spring is damp and mildew appears, dust with 

 sulphur flower in a small bellows. 



June. The Rose Hopper or Thrip, an active little 



