1826. OCTOBER. UPPER UMPQUA RIVER 229 



broad, hilly, and an almost impenetrable thicket. On leaving it about 

 five o'clock I was urged to creep along for a feeding-place for my horses, 

 which I found a mile and a half further on, and before I had made my en- 

 campment the rain was falling in torrents. Cooked the last of my deer 

 flesh and boiled a few ounces of rice for supper, and, lest I should not see any 

 Indians, I can only afford one meal a day. On rocks and trees in the 

 first point of wood, observed a species of Vitis, the first I have seen west 

 of the Eocky Mountains ; leaves partially five-lobed, smooth, slightly 

 serrated ; wood slender with white bark ; destitute of fruit. Marched 

 seventeen miles. 



Wednesday, 25th. Last night was one of the most dreadful I ever 

 witnessed. The rain, driven by the violence of the wind, rendered it im- 

 possible for me to keep any fire, and to add misery to my affliction my tent 

 was blown down at midnight, when I lay among Pteris aquilina^ rolled 

 in my wet blanket and tent till morning. Sleep of course was not to be had. 

 every ten or fifteen minutes immense trees falling producing a crash as if the 

 earth was cleaving asunder, which with the thunder peal on peal before the 

 echo of the former died away, and the lightning in zigzag and forked flashes, 

 had on my mind a sensation more than I can ever give vent to ; and more 

 so, when I think of the place and my circumstances. My poor horses were 

 unable to endure the violence of the storm without craving of me pro- 

 tection, which they did by hanging their heads over me and neighing. 

 Towards day it moderated and before sunrise clear, but very cold. I could 

 not stir before making a fire and drying part of my clothing, everything 

 being completely drenched, and indulging myself with a fume of tobacco 

 being the only thing I could afford. Started at ten o'clock, still shivering 

 with cold, although I rubbed myself with my handkerchief before the fire 

 until I was no longer able to endure the pain. Shortly after I was seized 

 with a severe headache and pain in the stomach, with giddiness and 

 dimness of sight ; having no medicine except a few grains of calomel, all 

 others being done, I could not think of taking that and therefore threw 

 myself into a violent perspiration and in the evening felt a little relieved. 

 Went through an open hilly country some thirteen miles, where I crossed the 

 river to the south side near three lodges of Indians, who gave me some 

 salmon such as is caught in the Columbia and at this season scarcely 

 eatable, but I was thankful to obtain it. Made a short stay and took my 

 course southerly towards a ridge of mountains, where I hope to find my 

 pine. The night being dry I camped early in the afternoon, in order to 

 dry the remaining part of my clothing. Travelled eighteen miles. 



Thursday, 26th. Weather dull and cloudy. When my people in 

 England are made acquainted with my travels, they may perhaps think 

 I have told them nothing but my miseries. That may be very correct, 

 but I now know that such objects as I am in quest of are not obtained 

 without a share of labour, anxiety of mind, and sometimes risk of personal 

 safety. I left my camp this morning at daylight on an excursion, leaving 

 my guide to take care of the camp and horses until my return in the 

 evening, when I found everything as I wished ; in the interval he had dried 

 1 Pteridium aquilinum, Christensen, Ind. Ml. p. 591. 



