1827, APRIL. COLUMBIA RIVER 253 



hundred miles from any assistance. In that state, between the hope of life 

 and dread of death, which must be trying to all mankind, two agreed to 

 make an effort to save themselves by endeavouring, before their strength 

 would fail them, to reach Spokane, the nearest establishment, which they 

 did in such a state as readily bespoke the misery they had endured. One 

 of the veterans I have seen, an Iroquois, by name Francis, one of the best 

 boatmen. The remaining six being divided in opinion could come to no 

 resolution as to what step should be taken, and no doubt, as is the case in 

 such trying circumstances, became insensible to their safety. All died 

 except one, who, it is supposed on good foundation, supported his dreadful 

 existence on a forbidden fare, having previously imbrued his hands in the 

 blood of his companions or companion in suffering. This, be it as it may, 

 could not be brought home to him in point of law, and the wretch was sent 

 out of their service to Canada. / Camped on the right-hand side of the river 

 on a sandbank, having gained ten and a half miles above the Dalles. Pro- 

 gress nineteen miles. Nothing in the way of plants this day. The rocks, 

 micaceous granite. Warm during the day, evening cool ; high snowy 

 mountains in the distance at forty miles north. Will prove, I hope, the 

 dividing ridge of the continent. 



Thursday, 2Qth. Keen frost last night ; obliged to rise twice to make 

 fire. Morning clear, noon fine, warm 70, afternoon chilly. Breakfast 

 on the left ; gained seven miles. Continued our journey through the 

 same sort of country as the preceding days. No plants came under my 

 notice : wood smaller growth ; Pinus Strobus becomes rare. Snow in 

 many places six feet deep. Banks of the river steep and rugged down to 

 the channel, course north and very rapid. Could find no suitable place to 

 take up lodgings. Obliged to lie down on the shore (the only place clear 

 of snow) among the stones, but, beirg fatigued, glad of any place. 

 Twenty-three miles progress ; walked in the morning, the snow having 

 a crust. High mountains seen in every direction. A ridge seen lying 

 north-east : I take to be the Rocky Mountains. Passed those seen last 

 night, which I took for them. Experienced a most violent headache the 

 greater part of the day, occasioned by the cold during the night. Walked 

 until in a state of perspiration, which gave me relief. Minimum heat 27. 



Friday, 27th. Keen frost last night, morning clear, wind easterly. 

 Started at daylight, having enjoyed but a comfortless night's rest among 

 the stones on the shore of the river. Course north ; country the same as 

 yesterday. Breakfasted on the left side at nine ; gained eight miles. 

 After resuming our journey for 300 yards, at a short turn of the river one 

 of the most magnificent prospects in Nature opened to our view. The 

 daily wished for dividing-ridge of the continent, bearing north-east, distant 

 six miles. The sight of the mountains is most impressive. Their height 

 from the level of the river from 6000 to 6500 feet, two-thirds covered with 

 wood, gradually diminishing to mere shrubs towards the confines of eternal 

 snow. One rugged beyond all description, rising into sharp rugged 

 peaks ; many beyond the power of man to ascend, being perpendicular 

 black rocks distinctly seen, having no snow on their surfaces. On the 

 right, rising from the bed of Canoe River, the northern branch of the 



