106 SUCCESSFUL FARMING 



are larger than any other cells. They are rough on the outside and hang 

 vertically on the comb, having much the shape of a peanut. The supply 

 of queens should not be entirely cut off, however, as a vigorous colony 

 needs requeening at least once in two years. 



Artificial swarming is sometimes resorted to by dividing an over- 

 crowded colony and furnishing a new queen to the queenless portion. 

 This process is expedient, however, only after indications of swarming 

 are observed. Otherwise, the bees may swarm naturally later on. 



Clipping the queen's wings to prevent her flying is sometimes resorted 

 to to prevent swarming. In this event, she will be found near the hive 

 when the swarm issues and can be recaptured and put into a new hive. The 

 parent colony should be removed and the new hive put in its place. The 

 swarming bees will then enter the new hive. The bees afield at the time 

 of swarming will also return to the new hive, thus strengthening the new 

 colony and relieving the congestion of the parent colony. The same 

 shifting of hives should take place in event of a natural swarming. 



Wintering of Bees. Queens showing lack of vitality as winter 

 approaches should be replaced, in order that the colony may begin the 

 inactive period with young and vigorous bees. Cellar wintering is not 

 advisable unless under the direction of an experienced bee keeper. The 

 dangers from moths, sweat and other bee troubles make the practice 

 doubtful. A dry, well-ventilated cellar with an even temperature is 

 imperative. 



Throughout the South, where the winters are mild, no packing is 

 needed for outside wintering. The entrance should be closed enough, 

 however, to keep out cold drafts and prevent the entrance of mice and 

 other enemies. Enough space must be left for the passage of the bees. 



In the North the hives must be well packed to retain the heat gener- 

 ated by the bees. Heavy building paper tacked around the hive, leaving 

 the entrance open, makes a good winter protection for bees. A piece of 

 burlap, tacked over the front of the hive and hanging over the entrance, 

 makes a good shield from snow and wind. This may be lifted on fair days 

 to permit the passage of the bees. Dark wrapping paper should be avoided, 

 as it absorbs the rays of the sun. This creates a rise in temperature within 

 the hive, resulting in too much bee activity. Dampness is more fatal 

 than cold to bees. It is advisable to place burlap or other absorbent 

 material on top of the frames to absorb the dampness which otherwise 

 might condense and dampen the cluster of bees. 



Bee Feeding. A colony of bees should enter the winter with from 

 25 to 40 pounds of honey stored for food. The quantity depends upon 

 the length and severity of the winter. 



Fall and spring feeding is often resorted to in order to continue activity 

 in the colony late in the season and stimulate it early in the spring. Honey 

 from unknown sources should not be fed, on account of introducing 

 disease. Syrup made from granulated sugar makes a satisfactory food. 



