BREAKING AND HANDLING. 109 



in teaching the dog to drop, but it is an undesirable method, 

 being unnecessarily severe in its effects, and awkward in its 

 application. It being an inferior method, the manner of it is 

 not worth describing. The spike collar, however, is val- 

 uable as an auxiliary instrument, and as such is especially 

 useful. 



It is not necessary to inflict severe punishment, or in- 

 deed much punishment of any kind to teach this branch. 

 Regularity and thoroughness are the most important 

 factors. 



The proper position for a dog at the drop is to lie down 

 with the body in nearly a straight line, and it is immaterial 

 whether the hind feet are on one side of the body or one on 

 each side; if taught to lie straight, he will eventually learn 

 to drop squarely enough for all practical purposes, if prop- 

 erly drilled in his lessons. He should not be permitted to 

 curl up or roll on his back, both being undesirable positions, 

 easily corrected in training. 



The painfully artificial attitudes which amateurs occa- 

 sionally attempt to teach are extremely tiresome to the dog, 

 and they are practically useless. The dog is required to lie 

 with his fore legs extended straight in front of him, with 

 head and neck in a straight line and resting between the 

 fore legs; the hind legs being placed one on each side of his 

 body, and resting squarely. 



To teach the dog to drop, procure a light riding whip 

 or very light rawhide, not on account of their punishing 

 qualities, but on account of the quickness and ease with 

 which it can be used, being in this respect incomparably 

 superior to the ordinary dog whip. A checkcord about four 

 feet long should be tied to his kennel collar to keep him 

 from running away. If he struggles against the kennel 

 collar, a spike collar may be substituted until the attempts 

 to escape are abandoned. The rope should be held in the 



