NOVEMBER 99 



meat in such a manner that it shall not escape, which is 

 sometimes sufficiently difficult if the bird is in an 

 advanced state ; however, it is possible to do so in 

 diverse ways, one of which is by fitting a crust of bread 

 and attaching it with a bit of ribbon. Take a slice of 

 bread one -third of an inch thick and two inches wider 

 on each side than the bird when laid on it. Then take 

 the livers, brains, and the trail of the woodcocks ; 

 pound them up with two large truffles, an anchovy, a 

 little rasped bacon, and as much of the finest fresh 

 butter as may seem necessary. Spread, then, this paste 

 on the toast equally, and let the pheasant, prepared as 

 above, be roasted over it in such a manner as that the 

 toast may be saturated with the juices that drop during 

 the operation of roasting. When that is done, serve the 

 pheasant gracefully laid on its bed (the toast) . Garnish 

 with Seville orange, and be tranquil as to the result.' 

 This extract from ' Les Classiques de la Table ' (p. 129) 

 I have taken from ' The Gentlewoman.' The gourmets 

 must make haste and try this dish, for fear the wood- 

 cocks, which are getting very scarce, should disappear 

 altogether. It is rather a mystery why they are 

 becoming so rare in England, for they are birds that 

 migrate. It has been suggested as as explanation that 

 sport is now so cosmopolitan, and breech -loading 

 weapons have so favourably handicapped the modern 

 gunner, that the woodcock is being gradually eliminated. 

 Poor little, clever, swift -flying thing, he is safe no- 

 where ! 



Mince-meat for Christmas should be made about 

 the 20th of this month. I think this old Suffolk receipt 

 is better than the one in ' Dainty Dishes' or in Mrs. 

 Roundell' s 'Practical Cookery.' The following direc- 

 tions are for a large quantity, but, of course, the 

 proportions can be greatly reduced : Two pounds of 



