Nature in Handcraft 45 



the printing frame before the exposure is made. A water lily is much more 

 realistic if it is placed at the top of the print and zigzag line cut from paper 

 placed just under to represent water, a silhouette of a fish or frog might be 

 added underneath. (Diagram A) Tissue paper, when printed, gives the 

 effect of shadows and is good for portraying dwarfs or fairies who live in a 

 fantastic world. Cut-outs of bugs or beetles add a realistic setting and may 

 become saucy by wearing a high hat and carrying a cane! 



A single flower or leaf may be used to make twenty or more prints thus 

 serving the whole group. For this reason they become an object lesson in 

 flower conservation which our cities and states are trying so hard to teach 

 to the children. It is a decided advantage to have a completed record made 

 of nature specimens as soon as they are gathered, otherwise the children 

 lose them or they wither before the next day. The crayon prints described 

 on another page are probably the best for leaves as they show even the 

 smallest veins. Prints of flowers, grasses or moss are most successfully made 

 from the blue print or Van Dyke paper. 



Instructions for the Use of Van Dy\e Paper 



Materials Needed: printing frames; two vessels of water; Van Dyke 

 paper. 



1. Proper exposure can be obtained only by making tests and observing 

 carefully the length of time consumed in each operation until a rich brown, 

 almost black, color is produced after the washing and drying process. This 

 is due to the fact that the strength of the sunlight and weather conditions 

 will cause to vary the length of exposure required. 



2. After proper exposure is made, do not allow the prints to remain in sun- 

 light or any other bright light until after they are developed. If possible 

 to avoid this, do not handle the undeveloped print with wet hands. The 

 prints should be washed thoroughly in a bath of plain water which should 

 be kept in motion during the washing process. Do not allow the prints to lie 

 and soak in undisturbed water. 



3. The next step is a bath in a fixing solution in which is used Van Dyke 

 Salts or hypo-sulphite of soda which can be obtained from any camera or 

 photo supply house or at most drug stores. This should be made in a pro- 

 portion of approximately one ounce to a gallon of water or a handful in 

 about two gallons of water, and should be allowed to dissolve before using. 

 The prints should be left in the bath for about two minutes, or long enough 

 to cause it to assume a reddish brown color. 



