166 On the trail of vanishing birds 



ancient sea bed, with corals and the worn shells of large marine 

 mollusks scattered along the shore. On all sides rise the slopes of 

 cedar-covered mountains, quite possibly the breeding site of the 

 rare black-capped petrel (Pterodroma hasitata), perhaps in the 

 region of Morne la Selle to the southwest of Enriquillo. When 

 we reached the open shore we counted 49 flamingos and 54 roseate 

 spoonbills feeding not far out. The governor told me that En- 

 riquillo was named for one of their great Indian chieftains, adding 

 that 60 per cent of the people in the Dominican Republic have 

 some degree of Indian blood. He likewise showed me where there 

 is an old Indian rock carving of a human face on the hillside 

 above the lake. 



Flamingos once nested on the shores of Enriquillo, but it is 

 evident that they could not do so successfully today, as there are 

 well-traveled roads all the way around the lake, many native vil- 

 lages, and no active law enforcement. Dr. Lopez told me that 

 although flamingos, spoonbills, and "all singing birds" are pro- 

 tected by law, people do shoot them, "and we have no way of 

 knowing/' In short, there is no special enforcement agency. 



That evening I met a young American surveyor named Byars. 

 The next morning he drove me up into the mountains directly 

 south of Enriquillo, to the beautiful valley in which Lago del 

 Limon is situated. Here we were again very close to the Haitian 

 border, and at the little native village of Limon we were stopped 

 by the troops that are garrisoned there. After a brief delay and 

 much talk we were permitted to go on. Near the lake, which is 

 fresh and surrounded by marshes, we left our car and walked to 

 the shore at several points. There were over 350 flamingos, as well 

 as many stilts, glossy ibises, egrets, and amazing numbers of coots 

 and yellowlegs. It was impossible to get close to the flamingos, 

 which kept well out on the lake, so that this lovely place is a fine 

 natural refuge. 



The following day, Byars and I circled the shore of Enriquillo 

 and explored remote parts of its shoreline. We saw several of the 

 amusing little broad-billed todies, which burrow into earth banks 

 like kingfishers. Also palm crows and a lively colony of village 

 weavers, obviously doing very well so far from their native Africa. 



