. . . It is possible yes it is probable that the 

 United States might run Cuba much better. As I get older, 

 however, I become more and more convinced that good government 

 is not a substitute for self-government. 



DWIGHT MORROW 



XI * Trouble in paradise 



The delta of the Rio Cauto was still a definite possibility. 

 In March of 1952 I returned to Cuba and again turned myself over 

 to the uncertain hospitality of El Gran Hotel Inglaterra. But not 

 for long. My friend Arturo, remembering the disappointments of 

 my previous visit, wasted no time in taking me to the waterfront 

 shack where dwelt the latest flamenco expert, a shrimp fisherman 

 who knew all things about the Cauto Delta and what went on 

 there. Or so he said. 



His name was Julio. He claimed he could take us to a place 

 where los flamencos nested. Oh yes, no doubt of it at all. Muchos 

 fiamencos! He leaned over and made patting and slapping motions 

 with his hands to show us how the mud-nest mounds of the fla- 

 mingo were made. Beside him a tattered Cuban fighting cock 

 strained to the full length of its tether and laid its head on one 

 side, watching his hands. Julio's watery eyes, meanwhile, were 

 watching me and greedily trying to guess how many pesos I should 

 pay for the use of his boat. In the doorway the oldest son or 



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