332 PARKS 



The court as described has no reinforcing in the paving. The expan- 

 sion and contraction due to temperature changes is accommodated by the 

 cuts through to subgrade. The court if properly constructed is divided 

 into independent blocks 12 feet square. 



Clay courts. As in other types of courts, the construction of clay and 

 dirt courts depends a great deal upon existing soil conditions. The amount 

 of money available is another factor. The following are a number of sugges- 

 tions taken from various sources: 



Mr. Paul B. Williams, of the United States Lawn Tennis Association, 

 states that "usually the best way to proceed in building a dirt court is to 

 cut away the earth to a depth of about one foot. This space must be care- 

 fully leveled and about six inches of broken stone one to two inches in 

 diameter put in. This layer should be thoroughly compacted, after which 

 a three-inch layer of finely broken stone or crushed gravel should be added. 

 For the top layer a mixture of sand and clay is used, but the proportions 

 vary greatly. If the clay is sticky, one part of sand to four of clay is a 

 good mixture. Usually, however, the proportion runs about eight of clay 

 to one of sand. If the court seems very soft when finished, it needs more 

 clay; if the surface is sticky, more sand is required. This top layer should 

 be from three to six inches thick. After it is applied, the court should be 

 well watered and rolled a couple of times daily for about two weeks before 

 it is used. Every effort must be made to keep the surface free from hollows 

 or humps, but by light raking, careful rolling and sprinkling, a true and 

 firm surface can be obtained. In case it is not necessary to use a stone 

 foundation, the process is to cut away the topsoil to a depth of several 

 inches until the firm subsoil is reached. Then a true grade must be estab- 

 lished. From two to four inches of top-dressing of clay and sand should be 

 used, this being raked into the under soil. Unless this raking is carefully 

 done, the top-dressing will form a distinct layer and the results will not 

 be so satisfactory as when it is carefully worked into the subsoil." 



According to a detailed statement by Albert D. Taylor, published in 

 Spalding's Tennis Annual for 1923, in constructing clay courts all soil should 

 be removed to a depth of one foot below finished surface. This should be 

 rolled and four-inch tiles laid at right angles to the direction of slope. Upon 

 the subgrade a layer of cinders is placed five inches in thickness after rolling. 

 Upon this a layer of one and one-half-inch crushed light stone slag or coarse 

 gravel is placed to be three inches in thickness after rolling. The voids in 

 this surface are filled by spreading on crushed gravel, crushed stone or slag 

 not exceeding three-fourths-inch dimension. At this stage, net posts and 

 center iron should be placed. The next layer should be a stiff clay contain- 

 ing no loam or organic material, pulverized sufficiently to pass through 



