UNDER-SEA PHOTOGRAPHY 165 



not buy land of the natives and if leased, the gov- 

 ernment sees the native gets a square deal. Every- 

 thing possible is done to prevent irresponsibles inter- 

 marrying with the natives. None are allowed to land 

 without putting up a cash bond, enough to pay their 

 passage away. There are some missionaries coming 

 to replace those that have served their time. Almost 

 no tourists come on account of lack of hotels. Steam- 

 ers southbound from San Francisco arrive with mail 

 every three weeks and that is the grand market day 

 for the natives. They gather in the Malai, a level 

 grass-covered place in the village, and have their 

 wares on sale all sorts of things to tempt the tourist, 

 tapa, kava bowls, Hula skirts, shells, coral, native 

 fruit, model boats, war clubs, home-made jewelry, 

 etc. It makes a colorful display, even the humble 

 hens' eggs find a place in this market place. Everyone 

 comes to see the show and gleans any news or gossip 

 from the ship. To the natives it is one grand holiday 

 and then how eagerly we wait for the native post- 

 mistress to sort the mail, read the papers and post 

 cards before they reach us. After five hours in the 

 harbor the ship goes on to Suva and starts her return 

 trip from Australia, the south and northbound ships 

 pass between Pago Pago and Suva, so two days later 

 the northbound one docks and alas! all too soon ours 

 picked up our car laden to the ceiling with cameras 



