356 PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE. 



them in spring, but not too early say May in this latitude, 

 or just when their buds are beginning to start if kept, as 

 they should have been, in a cool place. It is best to shake 

 the soil from the ball of the young vines that have been 

 grown in pots, although the disentanglement or spreading 

 of the roots, to which so much importance is by some at- 

 tached, is of no consequence. In planting it has ever 

 been my practice to set the roots outside, drawing the 

 tops through the apertures formed in the wall, a little 

 higher than the border inside the house (if there is one). 

 The distance apart at which the vines should be planted 

 is 3 feet. Strong galvanized wire should be run horizon- 

 tally 15 inches apart across the rafters, and 15 inches from 

 the glass on which to train the vines. 



I may here state to such as may object to outside 

 planting for hot house or forcing graperies, that I have 

 grown vines so planted for twenty years in succession, and 

 never failed to have a satisfactory crop. 



Firing was begun each year about the first of February. 

 Of course the border was covered up sufficiently with 

 leaves or litter to prevent its being frozen. But for 

 earlier forcing, say that beginning in December or Janu- 

 ary, it is necessary to heat such a border by the use of hot 

 manure or leaves, which must be in sufficient depth to fer- 

 ment ; and it must be covered with boards in winter so as 

 to throw off rain. The treatment of 



VINES THE FIRST SEASON 



is very simple, presuming they have been planted in 

 May and were cut back to two or three buds inside the 

 front wall. Select the strongest growth from one of these 

 buds, tying it to the wires as it grows, and pinching off to 

 one leaf the laterals or side shoots which it will throw out 

 above the first joint, until it reaches the top of the house, 

 after which let it revel at will. 



