GLASS AND GLAZING. 99 



more burn the leaves after the sun becomes strong ; to 

 counteract this, a slight shading had better be used on 

 the glass from April to September. We use naphtha, 

 with just enough white lead mixed in it to give it the 

 appearance of thin milk. This we put on with a syringe, 

 which sufficiently covers up all flaws in the glass to pre- 

 vent burning, and at the same time tends to cool the 

 house by mitigating the violence of the sun's rays. Tin? 

 is by far the cheapest and best shading we have ever used, 

 It can be gradated to- any degree of thickness, and costs 

 only about twenty-five cents per 1,000 square feet of glass. ; 

 for material and labor. 



In glazing, the method now almost universally adopted 

 is to bed the glass in putty, and tack it on top with 

 glazier's poirts, using no putty on the top. The glazier's 

 points are triangular, one corner of which is turned down, 

 so that when it is driven in, it fits the lower edge of each 

 pane and prevents it from slipping down. A great mis- 

 take is often made in giving the glass too much lap ; it 

 should only be given just enough to cover the edge of the 

 pane (from one-eighth to one-fourth of an inch). If 

 given too much, the water gets in between the panes, and 

 when it freezes it cracks the glass. 



Although no putty is used on the top of the bars, we 

 have found it an excellent plan to fill an ordinary oil-can, 

 such as is used for machinery, with white lead and oil, 

 and by its narrow-pointed funnel run a thin 1 stream of 

 the white lead at the edge where the glass fits against the 

 bar; by shaking dry sand over this, it forms a cement that 

 will hold for many years. We find this, even on old green- 

 houses, to be an excellent plan for closing up leakage and 

 firming the glass. Had I known of this most excellent 

 method of glazing twenty years ago, I would have saved 

 at least $10,000 that it has cost me in that time for 

 repairs. 



