316 PRACTICAL FLOKICULTUIIE. 



wall. Select the strongest growth from one of these 

 buds, tying it to the wires as it grows, and pinching off 

 to one leaf the laterals or side shoots which it will throw 

 out above the first joint, until it reaches the top of the 

 house, after which let it revel at will. 



THE SECOND SEASON. 



After planting, this single shoot or cane should be cut 

 down to the foot of the rafter, from which a shoot will 

 be allowed to grow as on the previous season. Vines are 

 not allowed to fruit in their first year's growth. When 

 the vines, however, are strong and well ripened, instead 

 of cutting them down as above stated, I have adopted the 

 following plan of fruiting the shoot, with good success: 



On well-grown vines the shoot or cane will be well 

 ripened, seven or eight feet from bottom of the rafter; 

 this shoot is "layered" by being twisted once round (in 

 order to check the flow of sap), in a twelve-inch pot, 

 which is filled up with vine border compost; roots will 

 be emitted from this "layer" sufficient to sustain and 

 mature the fruit, and as good a shoot will grow from be- 

 low the layer as if it had been cut down, as is usually 

 done; and if the young cane has been well matured the 

 previous season, a good crop will be secured with no in- 

 jury to the part of the vine relied on for permanent use. 

 The layer after fruiting may be thrown away or cut off 

 and used as a plant. 



[The plan is often adopted by those planting new gra- 

 peries to use the space that otherwise would be useless by 

 fruiting vines in pots, so that from the first erection of 

 the grapery, fruit can be obtained. Such vines are spe- 

 cially prepared for this purpose and can usually be ob- 

 tained from those who make a specialty of growing hot- 

 house grape vines. They should be such as are grown in 

 ten-inch pots, and should have the canes thoroughly 

 ripened, and not less than an inch in circumference. 



