Hogs and Hominy 153 



The curing of hams is still done on many farms and by 

 recipes in use for generations. Naturally these home-cured 

 hams have an entirely different texture and flavor from the 

 rapidly and chemically processed hams the packers sell. But 

 you could not expect a commercial packer to go through the 

 following ritual: 



How TO CURE HAMS 



Rub the hams all over, and well, with plenty of fine salt, working 

 the salt into the skin and around the hock. Pack the hams, skin 

 side down, in a box and leave them for several days. Then rub 

 them thoroughly with a mixture of 



* Ib. brown sugar 

 Z teaspoon black pepper 

 teaspoon saltpeter 

 teaspoon red pepper. 



Work this mixture well into the meat, especially around the hock, 

 where fly is apt to breed. Repack the hams in the box with salt 

 around and between them and allow them to stand for six weeks. 

 After this they should be smoked over hickory wood, for six hours 

 a day for one week. Air the smoke house daily to prevent the hams 

 becoming warm. Sew each ham in a bag and dip this in very thin 

 whitewash. Hang from the rafters for four or five months If you 

 can wait so long. 



When the time comes to cook one of these home-cured 

 hams it should be soaked overnight in cold water to which 

 a few bay leaves have been added. In the morning cover the 

 ham with fresh, cold water and bring to a boil. Boil gently in a 

 covered vessel on the back of the stove allowing twenty min- 

 utes to the pound. Allow the ham to cool in the water in 

 which it was boiled. Then remove the skin, spread a mixture 

 of equal parts of brown sugar and vinegar, with a little mus- 

 tard and red pepper over the fat side, stick it with whole cloves, 

 and return to the oven. Bake for half an hour in a hot oven, 

 basting the ham every five minutes with cider and a very little 

 of the liquor in which it was cooked. 



