40 Mm&tdanfa Travels in Hungary. 



vast cavities from which large quantities of salt had already 

 been extracted. It was a sort of subterraneous gulf, but 

 then it was illuminated by the miners through its whole out- 

 line, and even in the sinuosities of its deepest recesses. A 

 glimmering light was every where visible, but not clear enough 

 to distinguish objects ; this cast a mysterious air over the 

 whole, so as to form a scene truly magical. The effect was 

 still more imposing, from being blended with terror, when I 

 catched a glimpse of the steep walls of the surrounding pre- 

 cipices, with the ladders and machines for drawing up the salt. 

 The view was tremendous and enchanting, and produced a 

 sensation, of which no description can convey an adequate 

 idea. 



Quitting Berchtesgaden, I proceeded next for Hallein. The 

 entrance of the galleries was at Durnberg, where I arrived in a 

 direct course, though I was obliged to pass to Hallein, to get 

 leave of the directors to visit them. Hallein lies in the bottom 

 of a valley, the descent to which is very rapid, by a way cut 

 out of the abrupt declivities of the mountain ; to a stranger it 

 has a very picturesque effect. The district no longer forms a 

 part of Bavaria, having been lately ceded to Austria. At 

 Durnberg, the master miner had, by appointment, agreed to 

 accompany me. 



This entrance is by an horizontal gallery, lined with solid 

 walls, in all the first advances ; afterwards we come to a timber 

 wainscoting, and then appear masses of saliferous argile, solid 

 enough not to require supports or props. In the midst of 

 these argilous walls, we see [Jretty large portions of pure salt, 

 grey or reddish. 



I had not at Hallein the view of an illumination as rich as 

 at Berchtesgaden, but by the light of their little lamps, the eye 

 could trace a number of large lakes, on which are conveyed the 

 saline substances, dug up by the workmen. These lakes were 

 thirty-two in number ; I launched into the middle of one of 

 them, on the same radeau as had served the emperor Francis. 

 At the time of that monarch's visit; the whole area was lighted 

 up with great magnificence, and to judge from the space which 

 the lamps occupied, the scenery so enlightened, and shining 

 with so great a lustre, must have been very imposing. 



One particularity attached to the works of Hallein, is the 

 inclined planes on which we glide to pass from the higher to 

 the lower galleries. The number of these is considerable, and 

 much of the time is spent in the exercise. It may seem strange 

 that we thus glide, pretty rapidly, in an obscure path, over de- 

 clivities of from eighty to one hundred feet in length, holding 

 a bougie in one hand, and the rope which serves for a guide in 





