52 M. Beudant's Travels in Hungary. 



of Gimes. When I came to the village, it was only with a 

 Jew that I could have a small chamber, and that not in the 

 neatest order. Observing a capital house at some little dis- 

 tance, I recollected the advice given me by the magistrate of 

 Presburg, arid was not long in introducing myself. It was the 

 mansion of the count de Forgacs, lord of the district, who re- 

 ceived me in the kindest manner, inviting me to stay with him 

 while I was exploring the parts adjacent. 



Hungary is a country that its neighbours are ever misrepre- 

 senting, and we have, in France, notions not much in its fa- 

 vour. The lords, however, are in general very well informed, 

 speaking several languages, and the French habitually, which, 

 indeed, is usually the language &f good society. But their 

 distinguishing characteristic is a noble politeness ; a stranger 

 is uncommonly well received, not only by those to whom he 

 is recommended, but by those to whom he is entirely unknown ; 

 a dignified simplicity will add grace to the reception. To be 

 lodged in an ill-conditioned auberge, belonging to one of his 

 farmers, would be a sort of reflection on the lord, or the stran- 

 ger would be deemed as holding himself inferior to polite 

 society. 



The peasantry are very well behaved, and I had never the 

 slightest reason to complain of any. When obliged to have 

 some with me, in my little expeditions, I always found them 

 remarkably attentive, and ever eager to accompany me some- 

 what further. This proved to be the case universally, and I 

 am unable to account for the boisterous declamation of travel- 

 lers, respecting the manners of the inhabitants. Our reception 

 depends much on the mode of presenting ourselves; if we 

 will not conform to the usages of the people, if >we treat the 

 peasant with hauteur, or ridicule his appearance and behaviour, 

 no wonder that disagreeable consequences arise, and more I 

 should look for in Hungary than elsewhere. Some of their 

 customs are uncommonly singular, but I submitted, unre- 

 servedly, to them ; and this little complaisance, which costs 

 nothing, contributed not a little to render my stay in the 

 country agreeable. 



In fact, what could seem more odd to a Frenchman than to 

 see the dessert served up as soon as he is sat down to table ? 

 then comes chocolate, then an omelette cut into small bits, 

 and these arranged symmetrically on a plate of prunes, then a 

 piece of veal on baked pears, a plate of maize baked in a dish, 

 with water, &c. A bottle of liquor and a glass are then 

 brought, at which every one helps himself in his turn. After 

 4he repast the men fall "to smoking, the ladies being the first 

 to offer a pipe ; and tiiis occurs every where. The Hunga- 



