Journey from Vienna. 63 



rians are so truly polite when we adopt their customs, that 

 we cannot with a good grace refuse to be accommodating. 



We should still more make it a point to conform to the 

 manners of the peasant, who seldom or never reasons, and 

 judges of others by himself. One of his greatest civilities is to 

 offer you drink out of his bottle ; he drinks fir$t, and again 

 after you ; if you comply, you are instantly in his good graces, 

 but otherwise if you slight his kindness. It is well, however, 

 not to make one's self too familiar, avoiding, at the same time, 

 all appearance of hauteur. 



When I arrived at an old castle, the resident of the lord's 

 game-keeper, a young girl came to open the gate, and instantly 

 took my hand to kiss it. I was a little startled at this gallantry, 

 witnessing it, for the first time, at the gate of an old forsaken 

 castle, in the midst of a forest. My surprise disconcerted the 

 girl, and being desirous to speak with her, I found she only 

 understood the Sdavonian. She again took my hand to kiss, 

 and I no longer declined it. I have since been frequently a 

 witness to this usage, which is very common. A peasant 

 never appears before a well-dressed man without practising a 

 similar ceremony. Children and young persons learn and 

 practise it not only with their relations, but with company of 

 every description. Gentlemen kiss the hands of the ladies ; 

 and a lady paying a visit to another, superior to herself in age 

 or quality, tenders this mark of respect ; if the latter would 

 give an instance of politeness in return, she conceals her hands 

 and makes a prompt offer of her face. 



From the top of the castle there is a very fine view of all 

 the surrounding mountains, which are every where covered 

 with trees. In one excursion, I found a handsome wood, 

 wherein the count de Forgacs has cut a number of little 

 avenues and paths that serpentine in every direction. In an 

 adjacent warren is a variety of game, with fish ponds ; these, 

 with the situation entirely rural, render it a very pleasing 

 promenade. 



I could not stay long atGimcs, notwithstanding the pressing 

 instances of the count de Fergacs ; I was impatient to visit 

 certain problematical rocks, that formed a principal object of 

 my journey. I left my new friends, much pleased with their 

 affability; the count supplied me with his carriage, and I took 

 the road for Konigsberg. 



I might observe here, that the most elevated point of the 

 country is the mountain of the castle of Schlossberg, called 

 here the Mountain Gimes. Its height is about 1536 feet above 

 the level of the sea. Annexed are some barometrical obser- 

 vations, June J, 1818. 



