88 M. Beudant's fravets in Hungary. 



these parts, ard the numerous caverns noticed in maps of Hun- 

 gary, especially that of Demanova, and described by some 

 authors as containing ossified remains of animals. The valley 

 itself, from its magnificent vegetation, has acquired the sur- 

 name of Hungarian Switzerland. There are, however, other 

 caverns in the comitats of Arva, Thurotz, &c. 



Finding, at Lomnitz, that I was but three days' journey from 

 Villiczka, I felt an inclination to visit its famous salt-mines. I 

 made preparations accordingly, taking care to have my collec- 

 tions- sent directly forward to Pest. My baggage I had removed 

 to Eperies, and I took with me only what was necessary for 

 my little excursion into Poland. I set out with horses hired at 

 Gross Lomnitz. 



The Polish auberges are many degrees inferior to those of 

 Hungary; this I had soon an opportunity of Witnessing. Being 

 obliged to stop at Relyo, in a wretched cabaret kept by a Jew, 

 for my bed I had nothing but a bottle of straw spread in the 

 middle of what served me for both chamber and kitchen, 

 wherein I had scarcely room to stir, and Which, moreover, 

 Was very near the stable. My Jew was very apprehensive of 

 defiling the dirty porrengers that served for his own use, and 

 would have conversed with me, seated on a chair, had I been 

 in a humour to listen to him. My supper was an omelette of 

 fried eggs badly cooked. To enhance my misfortunes, several 

 peasants came in at ten at night, to drink potatoe brandy ; the 

 place was nauseating with it, and they would have remained 

 till next morning, had I not assumed the character of a great 

 lord, and dislodged them. 



When day appeared, I quitted my laire without waiting 

 for breakfast, though it was my custom to take refresh- 

 ment before setting out. At the town of Altendorf, I had to 

 undergo an examination by the officers of the customs ; this, 

 however, was soon dispatched, as I had only brought a shirt 

 with me, but my passports were only for Hungary, as, from 

 information I had received, there would be no difficulty in 

 passing the frontiers. The clerks, however, thought otherwise, 

 alleging that I should have had letters for quitting Hungary, 

 and that, besides, an order of the Hungarian chancelry could 

 not be valid in an Austrian douane, as if every Hungarian must 

 repair to Vienna in quest of a passport for Galicia. The direc- 

 tor whom I called upon gave an order for instantly signing 

 my passports, but his wretched scribes stood haggling with me, 

 and seeing me take snuff, pretended to confiscate nearly an 

 ounce that I had in my snuff box. I then threw the whole 

 about the place, and as it was fine and dry like all the snuffs 



