Return to Vienna. Hi 



Such are the general facts that I could collect respecting 

 Transylvania ; it is, however, a country abounding in objects 

 interesting for a naturalist to visit. 



CHAPTER XV. 



DEBRETZIN, NATUON LAKES, &C. THE AUTHOR'S RETURN TO 

 VIENNA. ,, Ijiifi 



The continuance of rainy weather for eight days together, 

 and the very bad roads, rendered my future progress dis- 

 couraging. My papers had been frequently wetted, and I was 

 unable to preserve what I was collecting, or to make regular 

 connected observations. I had intended to cross the moun- 

 tains of the Marmaros, but then I should have been under the 

 necessity of sleeping in the open air, which then was impracti- 

 cable. I determined for Debretzin, and quitting Ardo, began 

 to cross the plains of Szaboes. I had been toid of the difficul- 

 ties of travelling through districts overspread with marshes, 

 but could have formed no idea of the horses being up to the 

 belly in mud, and the carriage in danger of sticking fast in it, 

 and even of being overturned. To aggravate my misfortunes, 

 I could only procure oxen to the first station, and to reach the 

 second ; besides oxen, I was obliged to have two Wallachians 

 for my guides. This was the first and only time I had to com- 

 plain of the Hungarian peasants ; these were ill-looking figures, 

 whose dress and appearance prejudiced me against them from 

 first setting out. From a negligence which disgusted me, they 

 proceeded to ill-humour, and at length grew insolent. I was 

 seriously exasperated, frequently threatening them with my 

 cane, and with the bastinado on reaching the next station. 

 My cool and determined air had its effect, and though we were 

 at night-fall in the midst of the marshes, we arrived safe at 

 Nagy Kallo. Here the fellows asked my pardon, dreading lest 

 I should put my threat in execution. 



At this place I was in danger of starving, as all the provisions 

 in the auberge had been consumed, and I had to content myself 

 with a small loaf and a glass of bad wine. Nagy Kallo was 

 marked on my map as a post establishment, but for six years 

 no demand had been made on the post- Blaster, and I was 

 obliged to have recourse to the worspan or judge. \ had to 

 wait some time, as he could only find oxen, and would hardly 

 propose my taking horses extraordinary, that is, paying the 

 double station. Assuring him that I would readily do 'this, 



