HOTBEDS AND GREENHOUSES 103 



most easily obtained, is fresh horse manure in which there 

 is a quantity of straw or litter. This will give out a slow, 

 moist heat and will not burn out before the crops or the 

 plants mature. Get all the manure you need at one tune. 

 Pile it in a dry place and let it ferment; every few days 

 work the pile over thoroughly with a dung fork ; sometimes 

 two turnings of the manure are enough, but it is better to 

 let it stand and heat three or four tunes. 



"You can make a hotbed also on top of the ground with- 

 out any excavation. Spread a layer of manure evenly one 

 foot in depth and large enough to extend around the frame 

 three feet each way. Pack this down well, especially around 

 the edge, put on a second and third layer until you have a 

 well-trodden and compact bed of manure at least two and 

 one half feet in depth. Place the frame in the center of this 

 bed and press it down well." A two-inch layer of decayed 

 leaves, cut straw, or corn fodder, spread over the manure 

 in the frame and well packed down, will help to retain the 

 heat. Ventilate the bed every day to allow steam and 

 ammonia fumes to pass off. 



"The soil inside should be equal parts of garden loam 

 and well-rotted barnyard manure. Tramp well the first 

 layer of three inches. To make it entirely safe for the plant 

 seeds in the hotbed, add another layer of the same depth. 

 Use no water with garden loam and manure if you can pos- 

 sibly help it." 



"Before sowing any seeds put a thermometer in the bed 

 three inches deep in the soil. If it runs over 80 degrees 

 Fahrenheit, do not sow. If below 55 degrees it is too cold ; 

 you will have to fork it over and add more manure. If the 

 bed gets too hot, you can ventilate it with a sharp stick by 

 thrusting it down into the soil." 



