THE WORLD'S ADVANCE 



93 



Fit the door frame first, and nail the 

 header across. Remember that when 

 the frame is erected the floor plate cross- 

 ing the door opening will be removed 

 and the sill of the frame will drop to 

 the floor hence the header will be 

 lowered a little on this account. 



The top window headers will be on 

 a level with the door header, and the 

 bottom will be fitted from the window 

 frames. Place the uprights in each 

 opening, allowing about y& inch clear- 

 ance on each side of the frame. Put in 

 the short length studs, and cut out the 

 ledger board lap in them. The ledger 

 can be ripped from a piece of flooring. 

 The reader will understand that it is 

 used to help stiffen the frame and as a 

 support for the balcony headers. 



Remove the door and window frames 

 if you have not already done so, and 

 raise the wall frame into position. It 

 must be square with the wall line, and 

 rest over the double joists in the floor 



Poorer 



Fig. 15 Showing the Spiking and Bracing of the 

 Rear Wall. 



Fig. 12 Showing the Construction of the Framing 

 at Floor. 



frame. It must also be plumb. Spike 

 it to the floor through the plate and stif- 

 fen it with diagonal braces, as suggested 

 in Fig. 14. 



Frame the rear wall in exactly the 

 same manner and raise it into position. 

 Spike and brace it firmly 12 feet from 

 the front wall, as seen in Fig. 15. The 

 best method of doing this is to cut the 

 two side wall plates 12 feet long and nail 

 them into position, after which the rear 

 wall frame can be butted against their 

 ends. When plumb, firmly brace it as 

 you did before, and nail the balcony 

 headers in place. They will help to hold 

 the walls together. 



Next frame the roof. This is one of 

 the most difficult parts for the beginner, 

 but we have endeavored to illustrate a 

 method altogether shorn of technicali- 

 ties. Although it is not exactly accu- 

 rate, and would not pass as a good 

 method for a master builder to use, it 

 will do very well for the work at hand. 



Select one straight 2 by 4 by 10 feet, 

 and at the upper end, a, in Fig. 16, lay 

 the steel square so that the 13^" mark 

 on the blade just touches the outside 

 edge at b, and the 7 13/16" mark on the 



