A CRAFTSMAN SUMMER COTTAGE 



Describing a Summer Dwelling that May Be Constructed by the 

 Average Handy Man at Low Cost.* 



By Ralph P. Windoes 



Instructor of Manual Training, Davenport High School, Davenport, la. 



Illustrations from drawings made by the author 



WITH the main room framing 

 completed, build up the lower 

 part of the porch frame. Fig. 

 20 gives a detail of this framing in sec- 

 tions. The front should be made up first 

 upon the floor in a manner similar to 

 the framing of the main walls. 



Select two 2 x 4*5 of the same length 

 as the width of the porch for plates, and 

 cut fifteen 2 x 4/3 that are 32" long for 

 studs. Nail them in place 24" on centers, 

 and double at the ends. Set this frame 

 up, and spike it to the floor. It will not 

 be necessary to brace it, because of its 

 short height. 



Next, frame the right side in exactly 

 the same manner, and toe-nail the ends 

 of the plates onto the front and the 

 double corner of the main frame. 



The left wall frame will be made a 

 little different, as the screen door must 

 be provided for. Notice that the two 

 long studs do not have a plate on their 

 upper ends, as this plate will be placed 

 when the upper section is built, but they 

 must be held, temporarily, with a diag- 

 onal brace to the main wall frame. 

 When fitted in place and secured by the 

 upper section plate this brace will be 

 removed. Fit the studs and the header 

 around the screen door frame, exactly as 

 you did before, allowing a little clear- 

 ance on each side. When ready, raise 

 the frame and securely nail it in place. 



Fig. 21 gives a detail of the three 

 columns supporting the front of the up- 

 per section. Each is built up of 2 x 4*3 

 dressed on all sides and carefully nailed 

 together. Two blocks ij4" square are 



* This article is one of a series that has appeared in 

 every issue of THE WORLD'S ADVANCE, beginning with 

 the May number. The series is completed with this 

 instalment. 



nailed to each end, the upper to serve 

 as the abacus, and the lower, the plinth. 

 When ready, nail these in place on the 

 front plate, as seen in Fig. 22, and brace 

 them so that they are perfectly plumb 

 and in line. 



Upon the upper ends of these columns 

 must rest the header that supports the 

 roof. It is nailed up from the two 2 x 

 ID'S, and is cut as long as the plates of 

 the lower section. Spike these planks 

 firmly together, and straight on both 

 edges. Carefully raise it into position 

 on the posts, and toe-nail it to the abacus 

 of each post. 



The next step will be the framing of 

 the porch roof, using the 1 8-foot 2 x 4*3 

 for the rafters. This framing problem 

 is so simple that a detailed description 

 is hardly necessary. Each rafter at the 

 high end is fitted over the plate of the 

 main wall frame, and at the low end over 

 the porch header, as illustrated in Fig. 

 23. Run the upper end about one foot 

 past the plate and nail each rafter to a 

 corresponding rafter of the main roof. 

 At the lower ends, cut the rafters with 

 a 12-inch lookout. Spiking this end 

 firmly to the header will complete the 

 roof framing of the porch. 



Next, frame the upper sections of 

 the porch, as detailed in Fig 1 . 24. First 

 nail the plates across, toe-nailing their 

 ends into the double studs of the main 

 frame, and the porch header. These 

 plates must be straight and level. The 

 left side plate, of course, will rest upon 

 the upper ends of the long studs already 

 in place, and will be nailed to them. 



Between each plate and the outside 

 rafters, nail in the studs. They are cut 

 at the upper end in the same manner as 

 the studs in the main frame, excepting 



228 



