CHAPTER XIII 

 UGANDA, AND THE GREAT NYANZA LAKES 



WHEN we left Nairobi it was with real regret that we 

 said good-by to the many friends who had been so kind 

 to us; officials, private citizens, almost every one we had 

 met including Sir Percy Girouard, the new governor. At 

 Kijabe the men and women from the American Mission 

 and the children too were down at the station to wish us 

 good luck; and at Nakuru the settlers from the neighbor- 

 hood gathered on the platform to give us a farewell cheer. 

 The following morning we reached Kisumu on Lake 

 Victoria Nyanza. It is in the Kavirondo country, where 

 the natives, both men and women, as a rule go absolutely 

 naked, although they are peaceable and industrious. In 

 the native market they had brought in baskets, iron spade 

 heads, and food, to sell to the native and Indian traders who 

 had their booths round about; the meat market, under the 

 trees, was especially interesting. 



At noon we embarked in a smart little steamer, to cross 

 the lake. Twenty-four hours later we landed at Entebbe, the 

 seat of the English Governor of Uganda. Throughout our 

 passage the wind hardly ruffled the smooth surface of the 

 lake. As we steamed away from the eastern shore the 

 mountains behind us and on our right hand rose harsh and 

 barren, yet with a kind of forbidding beauty. Dark clouds 

 hung over the land we had left, and a rainbow stretched 



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