UGANDA, AND THE NYANZA LAKES 381 



us. Each afternoon, as we came to the spot where we were 

 to camp for the night, we found a cleared space strewed 

 with straw and surrounded by a plaited reed fence. Within 

 this space cane houses, with thatched roofs of coarse grass, 

 had been erected, some for our stores, one for a kitchen, 

 one, which was always decked with flowers, as a rest-house 

 for ourselves; the later with open sides, the roof upheld by 

 cane pillars, so that it was cool and comfortable, and afforded 

 a welcome shelter, either from the burning sun if the 

 weather was clear, or from the pelting, driving tropical 

 storms if there was rain. The moon was almost full 

 when we left Kampalla, and night after night it lent a half 

 unearthly beauty to the tropical landscape. 



Sometimes in the evenings the mosquitoes bothered us; 

 more often they did not; but in any event we slept well 

 under our nettings. Usually at each camp we found either 

 the head chief of the district, or a sub-chief, with presents; 

 eggs, chickens, sheep, once or twice a bullock, always pine- 

 apples and bananas. The chief was always well dressed 

 in flowing robes, and usually welcomed us with dignity 

 and courtesy (sometimes, however, permitting the courtesy 

 to assume the form of servility); and we would have him 

 in to tea, where he was sure to enjoy the bread and jam. 

 Sometimes he came in a rickshaw, sometimes in a kind of 

 wickerwork palanquin, sometimes on foot. When we left 

 his territory we made him a return gift. 



We avoided all old camping grounds, because of the 

 spirillum tick. This dangerous fever tick is one of the 

 insect scourges of Uganda, for its bite brings on a virulent 

 spirillum fever which lasts intermittently for months, 

 and may be accompanied by partial paralysis. It is com- 



