Alfalfa in Kansas. 223 



cutting edge of your knife to the next stake, somewhere near the place 

 you think it should be, resting the lower end of your rod on it. Adjust 

 to my level, as I shall instruct you, and when correct cut your notch, 

 lower your target one inch, and proceed to the next stake, and so on till 

 the last one. Now we have our grade. 



Next we will dig a few rods of the top soil, so stretch out the top- 

 digger's guide line, so that you can dig a straight, smooth-finished ditch. 

 This makes it much easier for the bottom man or tile layer, and the 

 better you can make conditions for him the faster he will get along. He 

 is the man that draws the big pay. The top-digger is supposed to dig 

 the top layer or spade-length of soil and shovel out the crumbs that fall 

 back from his spade. A round-nosed shovel is the best for removing the 

 crumbs. 



Now, having thrown off some of the top, let us get ready to throw 

 out the next spade-length and lay some tile. First we will drive two 

 stout stakes right by the first and second grade stakes, and stretch a 

 stout mason's line between them, each end being tied exactly at the 

 same height as the notches on the grade stakes. This line is exactly 

 parallel to the line of notches on the grade stakes, and is therefore 

 parallel to the surface of the bottom of the ditch on which you will lay 

 the tile. As you dig the last spade-length you will need a wooden square 

 to measure the depth of the ditch below the grade line. Make this of 

 light, straight lath, having the long arm of the square equalling the depth 

 of the ditch below the grade line and the short arm from 18 to 24 inches 

 long. Now start digging the last spade-length, leaving about one-half 

 to one inch of solid dirt in the bottom of the ditch to plane out with 

 your drain hoe. With the drain hoe leave a smooth, rounded channel in 

 the bottom of the ditch for the tile. Use your square as you need it, 

 to see if you are keeping the bottom of your ditch parallel with your 

 grade line, thereby insuring an even fall all along your ditch. 



Now we will "lay" the first "station." Get your hook, which I have 

 previously described, and lay in your first tile; now another one, mak- 

 ing it fit up against the first one as well as you can. If any of your 

 tile are chipped, put the hole on top so you can see it, and before you cave 

 off the side of your ditch to bed your .tile cover these holes with pieces 

 of broken tile. If you leave holes in the bottom the crawfish will some- 

 times throw mounds up through them and stop the tile. The tiler should 

 close the upper end of the ditch with a flat stone over the end of the 

 tile and tramp the dirt solidly behind it. 



Always pick out the hardest tile for the outlet of your ditch or sys- 

 tem. They are not so apt to crumble from freezing and thawing. 



Where you join a lateral onto a main or branch, use "Y's." If you 

 have to break a joint to fit, use a monkey wrench, setting the jaws on 

 the tile and prying in, never out. David Lessen, a well-known German 

 tiler of Central Illinois, is the originator of this trick; so please give 

 him the credit. It is a time-saver. When you get your joint made lay a 

 piece of heavy building paper over it and throw on a shovelful or two of 

 good wet grout or concrete. This makes a perfect union. 



