THE SUMMER FLOWER-GARDEN. 



houses that will do, where the same kind of moist temperature could be obtained ; but any exposure 

 to die sun must be carefully guarded against by mats or paper. If the situation is of the proper tem- 

 perature, they will require watering but very seldom. Directly the seedings are strong enough, 

 they must be pricked off in pots prepared as before, and placed in the same situation. From the 

 store-pots they will require to be potted off singly ; after this they will grow very rapidly. Through 

 the winter, the plants will thrive well on the shelves near the glass, in the greenhouses ; and, to ob- 

 tain fine specimens, they must be shifted freely till the flower-stalks have started, and should always 

 be smoked with tobacco directly the green-fly appears, as no plants in cultivation so readily suffer 

 from this insect as the Calceolaria. 



It is necessary to remark, that one of the most frequent causes of the appearance of these inju- 

 rious insects is the plant becoming root-bound; to avoid which evil, it is important that it should fre- 

 quently be repotted during the growing season. 



ACACIAS of all kinds should have scalding water poured over the seeds, and be allowed to soak 

 for twelve or twenty-four hours : they should then be planted in pots, in light, rich, sandy soil, cover- 

 ing one-fourth of an inch deep, and placed in the hotbed or greenhouse. 



GLOBE AMARANTH, LINUM, and CYPRESS-VINE seeds should be soaked in tepid water for 

 twelve hours to insure a quick germination. Rub the seeds with a little dry sand when ready for 

 sowing. 



LILIUMS of all kinds should have their seed planted immediately they are gathered, if possible, 

 as they vegetate sooner. They remain good, however, for three or four years, but, when sown in 

 spring, do not often vegetate until the second year. 



CYCLAMENS should be sown in the greenhouse or hotbed, in pans of light rich soil, well drained. 

 Transplant singly into pots, and keep them constantly growing the first year. 



STOCKS of the winter-flowering varieties should be sown in July, and pricked off singly into 

 small pots, shifting them as they require it, and keeping them in cold frames as long as it can be 

 safely done. 



CANNA-SEEDS have a hard, horny covering, and require to have the seed soaked in warm water 

 for ten or twelve hours, planting them in hotbed while the heat is brisk and strong. Transfer to 

 the open ground June ist, and take up the roots before hard frosts. 



GLOXINIAS and ACHIMENES require to be grown in pots in the greenhouse, or a warm frame. 

 The soil should be light and rich, leaf-mould, loam, and sand. 



FERNS are easily raised from the spores (or seeds) with a little care. Sow in pots which should 

 be half filled with a good drainage of crocks, and the remainder, to within a inch of the rim, with 

 coarse sandy peat or leaf-mould ; make the surface smooth, and cover with a thin layer of sand ; on 

 this sprinkle the spores. Set the pot in a pan of water in a warm, shady part of the greenhouse, and 

 cover with a pane of glass. In a month or two, the plants will be ready to pot off singly in small 

 pots. 



THE CONSTRUCTION AND MANAGEMENT OF HOTBEDS. 



We have already alluded to the importance of a hotbed for the successful growth of many of the 

 half-hardy annuals and more delicate greenhouse plants. Though most or all kinds of seeds may 

 be raised in a frame without bottom heat, yet this can only be done so late in the season, when the 

 weather has become warm, that many of the annuals are late in blooming, and the greenhouse 

 plants do not ripen and mature their wood, and are therefore ill adapted to winter welt It is to 

 obviate this that the hotbed is recommended to all amateurs. It is so easily made, and at such 

 slight expense, that it will well repay all who would secure an abundance of flowers early in the 

 season. 



SITUATION OF THE BED. This should be in a warm position, fully exposed to the sun, facing 

 the east or south, and sheltered by a fence or hedge on the west or north. The soil should, if 

 possible, be light and dry, as in this case the bed can be sunk a foot or more in the ground ; but, 

 if damp or cold, it should be built upon the surface. 



MAKING THE BED. Manure fresh from the stable is best. This should be thrown over and 

 thorougMy shaken up with the fork, making it into a conical heap. In this state it should be 

 allowed to remain four or five days, at the end of which time it should be turned over, shaking it 

 up as before. At the end of another three or four days, it will be ready to make up the bed. Lay 

 out the ground six inches larger than the frame, and put down a stake at each corner. The frame 

 may be of any size ; but the most convenient is nine by three feet, which will take thrap lights 

 three by six feet, the ordinary size, which can always be had ready made. Proceed to build up the 

 bed to the height of two and a half or three feet, making it rather firm, and watering, if the manure 

 is dry. When the bed is finished, put on the lights, and let it stand to settle and exhaust the violent 

 heat. In a day or two add three or four inches of light sandy loam, spreading it evenly over the 

 bed. If the seeds are to be sown in the soil of the bed, two or three more inches should be added ; 

 but if in pots, no addition will be necessary. 



The pots being ready, and sown with the various seeds, should be put into the frame, shading 

 them during the day, and regulating the temperature, by tilting the lights at the back, both night 

 and day, and covering at night with mats. Plunge the pots in the soil, and, with proper care, the 

 seeds will soon be above the soil. A thermometer placed in the bed will be the safest guide to 

 the inexperienced. It should not rise above 85 in the day, nor sink below 60 at night. As the 

 heat declines, linings of fresh manure should be applied around the outside of the bed ; but, ordi- 

 narily, for seeds this is not necessary. 



The length or number of the frames is immaterial ; but they should be nine to twelve inches 

 deep at the front, and fifteen to eighteen inches at the back. This will give a good slope to carry 

 off the rain. Cold frames are simply the hotbed-frame set upon a warm spot of ground, covering 

 it at night to keep in the warmth accumulated during the day. 



