Propagation. 



29 



ing from the lower extremity forms a callus or ring of the newly 

 formed wood, as in Fig. 20 ; and under favorable circumstances, the 

 granulations forming the callus emit roots into the soil (Fig. 21), 

 and thus a new plant is formed. 



Every leaf-bud on a fruit-tree may be regarded as an embryo 

 branch, and capable of forming a tree when supplied with sepa- 

 rate roots. But single buds do not contain within themselves suffi- 

 cient nutriment to sustain vegetation till roots are formed, without a 

 considerable portion of the alburnum or sap-wood attached ; hence 

 the superior advantage of taking an entire shoot or cutting. 



Propagation by cuttings is the simplest, mode of multiplying a 

 variety. It consists in the insertion of a shoot of one year's growth 

 into the soil ; the moisture of the soil renews the supply of sap, the 

 buds swell, the leaves expand, and the descending juices expend 

 themselves in the production of new roots, which 

 shoot downwards into the soil, Fig. 22. 



Under ordinary circumstances, or in open ground, 

 this mode is only applicable to such species as readily 

 throw out roots, as the currant, gooseberry, quince, 

 and grape. Cuttings of the apple and pear can only 

 be made to strike root in the Northern and Middle 

 States by confining the moisture under glass, while 

 artificial heat is applied. 



It may be stated, in general, that cuttings made of 

 the ripened wood of such trees as have a large pith, 

 succeed best when taken off with a portion of the 

 preceding year's wood, such as the gooseberry, cur- 

 rant, vine, fig, etc. With large and strong 

 shoots, the best success will result if cut- 

 tings are separated at the point between the 

 one and two years' growth. When small 

 side-shoots are used, they should be cut 

 closely to the main stem, so as to secure 

 the collar or enlarged portion of the wood 

 at the base of the shoot, Fig. 23. Roots are 

 more readily thrown out, if the cut is made immediately 

 below a bud. 



The best time to take off cuttings, in ordinary cases, is 

 in autumn and winter. The autumn is preferable, by giv- 

 ing time for the wounded section to cicatrize, preparing it 

 for the early emission of roots in spring. But where the 

 soil is heavy or liable to heave by frost, or where the cuttings are of 



Fig. 22. 

 Rooted cutting. 



Fig. 23 

 Cutting. 



