122 Among Men and Horses. 



in one of his Plain Tales from the Hills. He, like Phil. 

 Robinson, found that India was too small a place for a man 

 of literary power, and soon left it. 



I had so many pleasant experiences during my tour in 

 India, that I would fain dwell on them ; but as they would 

 no doubt be more interesting to me than to my readers, I 

 must pass by them with a few exceptions. I met a pleasing 

 relic of old Indian hospitality on the road I was travelling by 

 pony express between Nowshera and Hoti Murdan, on my 

 way to meet that fine regiment, The Guides, the officers of 

 which had invited me to come and teach them the art of 

 horsebreaking. Having travelled about half of the thirty 

 odd miles of the journey, I was beginning to feel the effects 

 of the northern Punjab sun, whose rays were beating down 

 on my tonga (Indian curricle), when I was stopped in the 

 road by a Native, who carried on his shoulders a couple of 

 large baskets slung on a pole. In reply to my query as to 

 what he wanted, he handed me a well-worn card upon which 

 was written : * Weary and welcome traveller to Hoti Murdan, 

 rest awhile and refresh yourself.' The Native, evidently well 

 accustomed to his task, proceeded to a green and shady spot 

 close by ; laid down his baskets, and extracted from them a 

 clean white tablecloth, upon which he laid out a delicious 

 cold lunch, with a plentiful supply of liquor, soda water, and 

 cigars. I very heartily drank the health of my generous- 

 hearted, though yet unknown friends, and having done justice 

 to the excellent fare, proceeded on to meet the fine fellows who 

 ably guard our northern frontier. I may mention that when 

 travelling by pony post in India, the stages are usually about 

 five miles long, and are covered, when the roads are good, at 

 a fast hand gallop. One of these ponies, which average about 

 13.1 high, when harnessed in a small two-wheeled cart, is 

 capable, with ease to itself, of carrying two or three men sixty 

 miles, from sunrise to sunset on a burning hot day, provided 

 it is halted every five or six miles, and given about three 

 quarts of water, in which about a pound of parched barley 



