How to obtain it. 131 



inches from the box end (see A FIG. 7), bore a hole one and a 

 quarter inches in diameter, into which fit a plug. The end of the 

 box is sjx inches deep like the sides. Take a saw and cut into it 

 two inches from each side. This leaves five inches between the 

 saw cuts, which should each be three inches deep. Take out the 

 piece of wood between them. Make a wooden outlet spout four 

 to six inches long, and fit to the opening, taking care to give it a 

 slight fall outwards, which will cause it to throw the water well 

 into the box below. When the outlet spouts are fixed level, and 

 the water supply slackens a little from any cause, the bulk of it will 

 often be licked back underneath the spout, and so will fail to enter 

 the other box (see Fig. 8). This endangers the eggs in the lower 

 hatching boxes, and there should be no possibility of such an 

 occurrence taking place, as the consequences may be serious. 



Fig. 7- Fig. 8. 



I have recently doubled the width of all my hatching boxes, 

 chiefly for the sake of economising space, as the double boxes 

 really take up less room and do more work. The thickness of 

 two sides and the space between them is saved, and more eggs 

 can be hatched in a box, it being more roomy and having two 

 currrents of water. This is a decided advantage, for owing to one 

 current acting with the other, eddies and counter currents are 

 produced which did not before exist. The necessity for extra 

 rearing boxes is done away with, as the hatching boxes are quite 

 sufficient for all purposes, if the fry be turned out any time within 

 fourteen days of commencing to feed. In a large hatchery where 

 millions oFova are incubated space is an object. In a small 

 hatchery the arrangement does not so much matter, and must 

 depend on local circumstances, such as the shape and size of the 

 building, etc. 



