48 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 



the needful thinning should be done, as by that time all 

 imperfect, unfertilised fruits will have fallen. Where more 

 than two fruits set on a spur, remove all but a pair, and 

 let these be as far apart as possible to allow for swell- 

 ing ; all one-sided and ill-shapen fruits must be removed. 

 Then begin to give to trees that are heavily laden some 

 liquid manure water either the drainings from stables or 

 cow-sheds, or manure water obtained by placing a coarse 

 bag of cow's or sheep's dung into a tub of water but do 

 not employ the liquid until it is properly diluted. Give 

 the trees a good soaking, and the next day lightly hoe 

 the surface around the trees. Then add a mulch of 

 half-rotten dung, i foot from the stem, 2 feet wide, and 

 if the weather proves dry, water on this once a week. If, 

 however, the soil is rich already and the fruit does not 

 swell gradually, an application of lime-water will be useful. 

 Again, if there is lime in the soil, a few ounces of sulphate 

 of ammonia or nitrate of soda just scratched in the surface 

 soil will at once stimulate growth. But beyond this it 

 is wise to give the trees potash and phosphatic manures 

 in the form of wood-ashes, or by using basic slag or soot, 

 whether they are bearing fruits or not. This should be 

 sprinkled over the surface and be just scratched into the 

 soil, so that the rains will carry the fertiliser direct to the 

 upper roots. Nitrate of soda or Kainit should not be used 

 on clayey or damp soils. The want of potash is most felt 

 in old gardens where the fruit-trees have been growing for 

 many years and have thus exhausted the soil. Bone-dust 

 and horn shavings are good manures, but they must be 

 used sparingly. Canary guano as sold in tins by florists is 

 also very suitable. Stimulants are required most of all by 



