94 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 



scion is cut with two wood sides and one bark side and 

 forced into the cavity, the scion being pointed and made 

 three-sided for the purpose. The wax or pug must cover 

 the end of the bough as grafted, and very early in May the 

 ties should be loosened, but not removed. Sticks should 

 be attached to the bough to support the new growths, as the 

 union at first from the new growth is very feeble, and, 

 in the absence of ties, grafts are sure to blow out in a gale, 

 or be forced out when any large bird settles on them. After 

 one summer's growth, the new wood is again cut back ; 

 and even if the growth is long and free the first summer, 

 it is wise to cut a foot off the ends in September to prevent 

 an undue strain on the junction. 



The growths in after-years are pruned according to the 

 form of tree desired. But on standards the best method 

 is to spur the side shoots, and leave only such long 

 growths as are required for the purpose of extending the 

 tree, or cutting others for the purpose of multiplying the 

 branches. A pyramid and standard tree are illustrated 

 on p. 80. 



It is somewhat difficult to put into words the exact 

 operations of budding and grafting. Amateurs might 

 grasp the work more readily if they could see it done by 

 an expert, and we suggest this should be arranged if pos- 

 sible. Still, with the descriptions and drawings, it should 

 not be difficult. We would advise amateurs at first 

 practising on such easily raised barks as the Ash or 

 Willow, or on Briar Rose, standards which do not neces- 

 sitate stooping. In the nurseries the men put on 2500 

 to 3000 buds per day, with the help of a boy following 

 behind them to make the ties. 



