CARPENTRY 



1196 



CARPENTRY 



nailed vertically over the siding. If one corner 

 board is 4 inches wide, the other should be 5, 

 as in Fig. 11. 



Shingles. Each row of shingles covers all of 

 the row below it except 4 to 6 inches. The row 



Doors. Both frames and doors are usually 

 purchased ready made. A common size of door 

 Is 2' 8"x6' 8"xl%". Inside doors are set high 

 enough to swing over carpets, and a saihlli is 



at the eaves should slightly overhang the last 

 board, and be double, as in Fig. 15. As eacli 

 row is laid a board is temporarily nailed to the 

 roof, with its upper edge marking the location 

 of the next row. Care should be taken to see 

 that no joint between two shingles is directly 

 above one in the row below. Very broad shingles 

 should be split. Two nails placed about two 

 inches above the exposed portion will hold the 

 ordinary shingle. Fig. 14 shows a method of 

 making the ridge water-tight. 



Eaves. The edge of the roof may be finished 

 in many ways, which can best be learned by 

 examining finished houses. Metal eave-troughs, 

 or gutters, may be attached either before or 

 after shingling. 



The Inside. Floors are usually double, as in 

 Fig. 12. The lower layer is of plain or matched 

 boards laid diagonally so that their shrinkage 

 will not cause cracks in the upper layer of 

 finished flooring. The latter is blind nailed, 

 as in Fig. 13. Where the end of a diagonally 

 cut board will be unsupported, a small strip 

 c (Fig. 12) should be fastened. 



Walls. If plaster is to be applied, walls and 

 ceilings must first be covered with laths set 

 horizontally about %-inch apart. Remember 

 always to have a nailing strip for the end of 

 every lath. In place of plaster the walls may 

 be finished with composition board or with V- 

 joint lumber, blind-nailed. 



In cold climates sheathing is put inside the 

 studs as well as outside. In this case vertical 

 nailing strips must be added before the laths are 

 attached. 



Baseboards are attached as shown in Fig. 12. 

 With V- joint they may be omitted and the angles 

 filled with quarter-round, which is like a quarter 

 of a small cylinder. 



Windows. All the details of a window are 

 shown in Fig. 16. Most of the parts come from 

 the mill already cut in proper sizes. In the 

 picture, a is the space for the pulley weights, 

 ft is a plaster ground like d in Fig. 12, and c c 

 are trimmings. A good rule for windows is 

 that there should be a square foot of glass for 

 every 100 cubic feet of interior space to be 

 lighted. Before commencing a building it will 

 be well to find out if the size of window desired 

 is in stock at the local planing mill. 



put underneath them in the door frame. The 

 details of door hanging can best be learned by 

 examining doors already in use. 



Filling. Where cold winds are frequent it is 

 advisable to fill spaces between joists with old 

 bricks or odds and ids of 2"x4", as at e in 

 Fig. 12. Openings between rafters at the plate 

 may also be blocked. 



Cutting the Rafters. Because of the diag- 

 onal cuts in rafters, their measurement is more 

 difficult than that of other parts of the frame. 

 In actual cutting the steel square is used, but 

 before building commences the length of 

 rafters can best be estimated by a graphic 

 drawing, as in Fig. 17. On a large sheet of 

 paper draw a line ac to represent the plate, 

 using a convenient scale, say % of an inch 

 to the foot. If the roof is to be *4 pitch (see 

 ROOF), the perpendicular line bd at the center 

 will be ^A ac. Now draw the lines ba and be; 

 their measurement gives the length of the 

 rafters from ridge to edge of plate. If the 

 rafters are to be notched to the plate for 

 half their thickness, this will be the measure- 

 ment along their center, as will be seen from 

 Fig. 18. Do not forget to add to the length 

 of the rafter thus found the distance which 

 you wish it to project beyond the plate. The 

 distance ad is called the run of the rafter; the 

 distance bd its rise. 



A steel square has a scale of inches on each 

 outer edge, besides scales of various other sorts 

 and tables which cannot be explained here. 

 To measure a common rafter like the one 

 in the house illustrated, the inch scales are 

 used. In the present instance the rafter has 

 a run of 6 feet and a rise of 3 feet, and in 

 one foot of run will rise 6 inches. Lay the 

 square on the edge of a 2"x4", with the 

 6" mark of one arm and the 12" mark of the 

 other as at a in Fig. 18. Mark along the line 

 p for the plumb cut, but in cutting the r; if tor 

 later, remember to allow a half-inch for the 



