JEWELRY 



3148 



JEWFISH 



economy in Owens College, Manchester; and 

 subsequently he held the chair of political 

 economy in University College, London. His 

 Letters and Journals were edited by his wife 

 in 1886, four years after he was drowned while 

 bathing near Hastings. See LOGIC. 



JEWELRY, jewelri, the collective name of 

 a wide variety of gems and ornaments of 

 precious metals and minerals worn by men and 

 women for personal adornment. From earliest 

 days, among the civilized and savage alike, 

 the wearing of jewelry has been a dominant 

 trait, for the passion for display is as old as 

 man. When the savage cannot secure metals 

 and gems, he paints his body for adornment, 

 submits to tattooing, or wears pieces of bone, 

 wood or iron inserted in the flesh of ear, lip 

 or nose. Gold and silver ornaments probably 

 date from immediately after the discovery of 

 those metals; on account of its attractive color 

 and the ease with which it can be shaped or 

 "worked," gold has always formed the principal 

 foundation of jewelry. 



There is a great difference between modern 

 jewelry and that made by the ancients. Ma- 

 chinery has entirely altered the methods of 

 manufacture. The ancients depended on their 

 hands and such rough tools as coulgl be con- 

 structed to produce their effects. Metal was 

 beaten, hammered and chased ; the results were 

 almost invariably harmonious and artistic com- 

 binations. In those days there was great op- 

 portunity for individuality and originality. In 

 modern jewelry these have largely given place 

 to conventionality. 



Ancient Greek jewelry is remarkable for per- 

 fection of form and artistic ornament. Roman 

 jewelry shows more barbaric splendor, while 

 the most beautiful and artistic metal work of 

 ancient times was produced by the Etruscans 

 (see ETRURIA). The period of the Renaissance 

 saw a great improvement in the making of 

 jewelry. Designs became more chaste and ar- 

 tistic and inlaid work became fashionable. 

 Diamonds and other precious stones were set 

 flat, with a backing of metal. What is now 

 called the rose diamond was introduced in the 

 sixteenth century and immediately led to a 

 lighter and more graceful setting. The jewelry 

 of the Renaissance, even the jewelry of the 

 Egyptians, executed nearly 3,000 years ago, 

 has never been surpassed in elegance. 



The chief centers of modern jewelry manu- 

 facture are London, Paris, Vienna and New 

 York. Of recent years there has been a great 

 increase in the manufacture of jewelry which 



imitates in its forms the highest grades, to meet 

 the demands of those who cannot afford expen- 

 sive ornaments. Gold-plated and gold-filled 

 jewelry is manufactured in vast quantities, in 

 conventional designs, while paste in imitation 

 of diamonds, and glass substitutes for other pre- 

 cious stones, set in cheap alloy, are to be found 

 in every jeweler's store. 



Wearing of Jewelry Restricted. The wear- 

 ing of jewelry is fashionable, but certain re- 

 strictions have sprung up in modern times. In 

 semi-civilized or savage nations it is customary 

 for a woman to wear all the jewelry she may 

 possess; the result is frequently a display of 

 barbaric splendor. In highly-civilized countries 

 such adornment is considered an exhibition of 

 bad taste. A little good jewelry which forms 

 a tasteful display is always appreciated. Too 

 much display is accounted a vulgarity. Sheri- 

 dan, the noted wit, once came into conflict with 

 a rival wit. Sheridan wore a plain signet ring 

 and a simple, and good, watch fob. His rival 

 had his fingers covered with rings, amidst 

 which diamonds flashed. The diamond wearer 

 was crushed by a remark of Sheridan's to the 

 effect that he, Sheridan, relied on mental 

 flashes, while his rival relied on purely artificial 

 scintillations. 



Consult Kunz's The Curious Lure of Precious 

 Stones; Rathbone's Simple Jewellery. 



Related Subjects. In this connection, the 

 reader is referred to the following articles in 

 these volumes : 



Agate Heliotrope 



Almandine Jade 



Amethyst Jasper 



Aquamarine Jet 



Beads Lapis Lazuli 



Beryl Onyx 



Brooch Opal 



Cameo Pearl 



Carbuncle Platinum 



Carnelian Ring 



Chalcedony Ruby 



Coral Sapphire 



Diamond Sardonyx 



Emerald Silver 



Enamel Topaz 



Garnet Tourmaline 



Gems Turquoise 

 Gold 



JEWFISH, the largest of the sea-bass fam- 

 ily, found in tropical American waters. It is 

 dark green or brown in color, has a large, flat 

 head, dangerous teeth, huge mouth, and varies 

 in weight from twenty to 700 pounds. It is 

 attracted to rocky places. The black jewfish of 

 Florida, which is also known as Warsaw, is a 

 favorite object of fishermen, for many sped- 



