SEWING 



5326 



SEWING 



expert in charge of the work; a careful study 

 of the printed matter on the pattern and the 

 accompanying chart will enable the student to 

 cut the garment without mistakes or waste of 

 the material. 



The pattern should be carefully measured 

 and the alterations made as directed before it 

 is placed on the 

 material; never 

 trust to making 

 the necessary 

 alterations when 

 fitting the gar- 

 ment. The other 

 most important 

 caution is to ob- 

 serve the mark- 

 ings of the pat- 

 tern for placing 

 on folds and on 

 lengthwise 

 threads of the 

 material. In ad- 

 dition, one should 



place the material KIMONO 



so that the nap Ce 2' g ^ '" 



of the cloth will 

 lie in such a position that it will be flat when 

 the garment is brushed downward. Many a 

 garment owes its poor fit to the careless placing 

 of the pattern. 



Underwear. Every possible effort should be 

 put forth to make and keep underwear dainty 

 and beautiful. Narrow facings, hems and tucks, 

 handmade laces, bits of hand embroidery and 



CAMISOLE AND CORSET COVER 



snowy ribbons should appear here. If a bit of 

 color is desired, only pale pink or baby blue are 

 to be used. 



Narrow, flat seams in garments that some 

 next to the body and French seams measuring 

 from one-eighth or less to a Quarter of an inch 

 in width in the other garments are used in 

 underwear. These s^ams require much skill in 

 fact, so much skill that in some technical 



schools this phase of sewing is given during the 

 last year of the course and ranks with fine baby 

 clothes in the requirement of technical skill. 



Just as much care should be taken with the 

 fitting of an undergarment as with a dress. 

 Bands should be exactly the right size, fasten- 

 ings should be placed in their proper places, 

 and attention 

 should be given 

 to every detail of 

 the work. One- 

 piece plackets are 

 usually used, and 

 these should be 

 narrow and neatly 

 fitted and fin- 

 ished. 



All buttons 

 should be as small 

 and inconspicu- 

 ous as will answer 

 the purpose. But- 

 tonholes are to be 

 worked with the 

 greatest care. No 

 part of sewing 

 marks a careful 

 and expert seam- 



stress more surely than does the buttonhole. 

 The purl is made by bringing the thread from 

 the eye of the needle around the point in the 

 direction in which one is working, thus form- 

 ing a double knot. 

 Holding the 

 thread so that 

 the needle is 

 brought through 

 a loop makes the 

 blanket stitch; 

 but this does not 

 wear nearly as 

 well as the but- 

 tonhole stitch. 



The personal 

 taste of the 

 wearer and the 

 amount of time 

 and money she 

 wishes to put into 

 the garment de- 

 termine the style 

 and material of 

 much of the un- 

 derwear. Longcloth, French or English nain- 

 sook, Berkley cambric and crape are suitable 

 and serviceable cotton cloths which launder 



COMBINATION CORSET 

 COVER AND PETTICOAT 



