WOOL 



635") 



WOOLSEY 



band to a soft, loose cord, or sliver, a little 

 larger than heavy crocheting yam. This sliver 

 is then spun into a twisted thread on a mule 

 jenny, and the threads are wound on spools 

 and are ready for the loom. 



After the cloth is woven in any desired pat- 

 tern it is washed and redyed, if necessary. The 

 nap is raised and trimmed by a teaseling and 

 shearing machine, and the goods are pressed 

 between iron plates in a hydraulic press. 



In the making of worsteds, after the long 

 fibers are carded they are combed, or gilled, 

 before they are spun into the tightly-twisted 

 yarns. 



Before the War of the Nations Great Britain 

 led the world in the manufacture of woolens, 

 but in the year 1915 the United States sur- 

 passed all other countries in the production of 

 woolen, worsted and felt goods. The five states 

 leading in this industry are Massachusetts, 

 Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, New Jersey and 

 New York. 



History. The different kinds of cloth made 

 from wool by the ancients were described by 

 Pliny, the Roman naturalist, and it was from 

 Rome that the manufacture of woolen textiles 

 spread to Spain, the Low Countries and Eng- 

 land. During the Middle Ages the industry 

 grew to large proportions on the Continent, 

 and in England it became the country's very 

 "strength, revenue and blood." The guilds or- 

 ganized among the weavers, combers and full- 

 ers became a prominent factor in political life. 

 The export and import of wool and woolen 

 goods were regulated by law, and it was not 

 until 1825 that the law prohibiting export was 

 finally repealed. In the latter part of the nine- 

 teenth century the various branches of the in- 

 dustry were united, and the production of 

 homespuns, or wool prepared in the home, rap- 

 idly disappeared. 



The first successful woolen mill in the United 

 States was established at Newbury, Mass., in 

 1790. By the end of the nineteenth century 

 all of the chief improvements in tin machinery 

 used in the manufacture had been introduced, 

 and the industry developed rapidly in the fol- 

 lowing years. K.H.I-. 



Consult Ford's Wool and Manufacture of 

 Wool; Mai i,ff Wool Grower and the Wool 



Trade (Bulletin 206, U. 8. Dept. of Agriculture) ; 

 Rushworth's The Sheep. 



Related Subject*. The following articles In 

 these volumes will be of Interest In this connec- 

 tion : 



Adulteration of Food- Alpaca 

 stuffs and Clothing Broadcloth 



Cashmere Goat Shoddy 

 Dyeing and Dyestuffs Spinning 



Felt Teasel 



Fiber Tweeds 



Flannel Weaving 



Mohair Worsted 

 Sheep 



WOOLFLOWER, wool' flour, CHINESE, a 

 gorgeous new garden plant brought from China 

 to America since the year 1910. It grows as a 

 bush from two to three feet high, and the stem 

 ends bear huge balls of deep crimson, wool- 



THE WOOLFLOWER 



Above, appearance of the plant In blossom ; be- 

 low, single flower clusters. 



like bloom. Along the stems appear smaller 

 branches, each with its ball of scarlet. 

 plant promises to be very popular, for it is 

 easily cultivated, and the blossoms, which ma- 

 ture early in July, grow continually deeper in 

 color until they are touched by the frost. 



WOOLSEY, wool' si, THEODORE DWIGHT 

 (1801-1889), an American educator. mmvr-itv 

 president and fom-ful writer on educational 

 topics. He was born in New York City, and 

 was a descendant of Jonathan Edwards. In 

 1820 he was graduated at Yale University, and 

 thereafter studied law in Philadelphia and tin - 

 ology at Princeton College, though he was not 

 ordained a clergyman until a quarter of a cen- 

 tury later. For a time he was a tutor at Yale, 

 then studied Greek in Europe, and in 1831 be- 

 came professor of Greek at Yale. Fifteen years 

 later he was chosen president of that institu- 

 tion, which under his administration increased 



